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Routes in The Dihedrals

Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gauntlet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Millenium Falcon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Rance, Frank Baumann 1969. FFA Craig McGee and Evan Stevens
Page Views: 1,394 total, 11/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details

Description

A long standing unfreed super classic 3 pitch route that was finally cleaned up, retro-fitted and freed this summer (2007).

p1: 11b. Use any technique in the book to climb the dihedral for 35m to the bolted belay. Many small cams and wires, but there are good rests, hang in there!

p2: 12b 10m. Clip the bolt above the belay and figure out the short but vicious crux, followed by a beautiful thin finger crack to the 2 bolt belay.

p3: 12a 20m. Follow the impeccable dihedral to its end, then undercling and traverse left to the anchor. Clip the bolt and call upon the onsight gods to figure out the mystery finish move to the bolted belay.

2 35m raps get you back to your backpacks.

Location

The Dihedrals area to the left of Freeway and the right of Arrowroot and Millenium Falcon. There should be a fixed line to pull up to a stance below a 40m x 1m wide dihedral with a thin crack.

Protection

RPs x 2, Small wires x 2, Double set of cams from grey tcu to .75 camalot, one each #1, 2 and 3 camalot. Dozen draws and runners (for the many small wires!)

Photos

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Tim Bonnell  
 
The 1st pitch has recently been re-cleaned and is in perfect condition - it could be one of the very best 11b pitches in Squamish. For gear, I'd recommend:
3 x grey metolius
5 x purple met (or green C3)
3 x blue met
3 x yellow met
1 x orange met
1 each of BD .4, .5, .75 and 1
a set of nuts

A BD #3 can be placed in one spot on p1 but there are tons of other options. I don't think a BD#2 will go in anywhere Jul 31, 2017