Brothers in Arms
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 49.6814, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Colin Morehead 2003 |
| Page Views: | 3,282 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Jun 29, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
To protect Peregrine Falcons and park visitors, the climbing routes the Grand Wall (specifically Pitch 4 [the Split Pillar] and above), the Black Dyke, Europa, Millenium Falcon, The Gauntlet, and Sunset Strip, are CLOSED to climbing. The shorter routes along the lower portion of the Grand Wall and Western Dihedrals in this area remain open.
Bellygood Ledge and climbs above Bellygood Ledge remain open. If the cliffs at the top of Planet Caravan are used for BASE jumping, flights should avoid the closure area. BC Parks will continue to monitor the nest site and may update the closure area. BC Parks will lift the closure when the nest is no longer in use.
Peregrine Falcons and their nests are protected under the BC Wildlife Act. It is an offense under the Wildlife Act to harass nesting birds or damage their nests.
Please report falcon sightings to parkinfo@gov.bc.ca Reports from climbers are essential for ensuring falcons are protected without unnecessarily limiting climbing opportunities.
Description
Brothers in Arms is yet another amazingly classic Freeway variation, starting off of 'sky crag ledge'. To approach climb the first pitch of Freeway through to the top of Daylight Crack. Belay here. Two options for the next pitch, a 5.10 follows the crack straight up, or go right to a bolt and some thin face moves at 10+. Either way about 12m of climbing brings you to a nice ledge on the edge of the steep, golden buttress. The line is the right most one from the ledge.
p1. 12b, 5 bolts, a few pieces to 2". Steep and pumpy liebacking brings you to a belay stance after 15m and a 2 bolt anchor. At the end of the pitch you can either fire in a hard to place piece or punch it for the chains. Good whipper spectating can be had on the end of this one!
p2. 12c 3 bolts, lots of small gear/nuts. Some steep and funky climbing past a few bolts and dike rock leads to a tips corner. Climb the tips corner with small nuts for about 5m and look to break out right onto the face for the belay ledge. 15m.
p3. 11+ Joins the big slick. More tips liebacking with a few bolts, kind of bold, watch out for some loose rock.
p4. 5.9 Runout and bold to the truckstop ledge and the rest of Freeway.



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