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Planet Caravan
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Dihedrals
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50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Heavy Fuel T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6814, -123.1482 |
| FA: | FA: Bruce stover, Kris Wild, Roger Sarrasin, 2000. FFA P1&5: C. Moorhead, 2003. |
| Page Views: | 482 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Vaill on Jul 24, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: FALCON NESTING ROUTE CLOSURE - FROM THE GRAND WALL TO SUNSET STRIP
Details
To protect Peregrine Falcons and park visitors, the climbing routes the Grand Wall (specifically Pitch 4 [the Split Pillar] and above), the Black Dyke, Europa, Millenium Falcon, The Gauntlet, and Sunset Strip, are CLOSED to climbing. The shorter routes along the lower portion of the Grand Wall and Western Dihedrals in this area remain open.
Bellygood Ledge and climbs above Bellygood Ledge remain open. If the cliffs at the top of Planet Caravan are used for BASE jumping, flights should avoid the closure area. BC Parks will continue to monitor the nest site and may update the closure area. BC Parks will lift the closure when the nest is no longer in use.
Peregrine Falcons and their nests are protected under the BC Wildlife Act. It is an offense under the Wildlife Act to harass nesting birds or damage their nests.
Please report falcon sightings to parkinfo@gov.bc.ca Reports from climbers are essential for ensuring falcons are protected without unnecessarily limiting climbing opportunities.
Description
Sweet 5.10 cracks and an optional 11+ slab broken up by huge forested ledges get you to an ultra-classic 40m 12b corner featuring bolt-protected cruxes (and all-day shade in late July). Bolted anchors.
P1: climb up a corner past a couple bolts to a move left to another bolt on the slab. A hard sequence gets you past the bolt to the arête. More 5.11 slab climbing goes straight up past 5(?) more bolts to an anchor. (Or take the 5.10 A0 variation which I haven’t done: continue straight up the corner and belay at a lower anchor, then aid on a couple bolts to the ledge and move left to the bolted anchor). Single rack and lots of draws was fine for the 11+ variation.
P2: Step left around the arête and enjoy the beautiful 5.10 corner above (fingers). Either continue up and right through trees to a big ledge and belay on hand-sized gear or a tree, or belay at the lower bolted anchor and then move the belay up through the trees. (There are fixed lines from this anchor to the ledge but idk their age, use with discretion).
P3: Head up the slab past a couple bolts. Dance like the slab/crack ballerina that you are, plugging some tiny gear along the way (5.10+). If you don’t eat 5.12 corners for breakfast, be benevolent to whoever will be belaying the crux and pull up the belay seat that’s stashed at the ledge below.
P4: this is what you came for! Fingerlock, stem, layback, and levitate up the corner and past a bolt at the first crux. Climb up to the next bolt and bust a sick boulder problem! More classic crack climbing gets you to a fixed pin and an awkward encounter with a small tree. Above the tree heroic stemming and liebacking gets you to the chains! What a pitch! Bring most of the rack and draws, and your whole bag of tricks to send this 40m pitch of classic 5.12 granite.
P5: another sweet crack pitch! (5.10)
P6: face climb 15m past bolts (looked dirty, I didn’t do it)
Rap the route with a single 60 via the Supernaught variation (to the left of the crux dihedral)
Location
Freeway trail. Turn left after trap from boulders and start looking for the route. Within 1-2 minutes you should see it. Look for a low angle corner in the trees above the trail. Walk past and then switch back along a ledge to get to the route. There’s a fallen tree across the corner around the level of the first bolt.
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