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The Never Ending Traverse
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Dihedrals
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50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6814, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Kyle Smith and Casey Dubois |
| Page Views: | 970 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle Smith on Jul 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Details
Description
A long 2 pitch climb that would be a good pairing with rutabaga. The climb starts 10m slightly right and uphill from deadend dihedral.
The first pitch has a new and harder direct start to the historic pitch called "slow dyke", climbed by Peter Croft in 1982. I only added two bolts to the dyke traverse. Peter left the route very bold and it became severely overgrown. By adding two bolts to the traverse I hope more people will climb the route. It reduces some of the seriousness of the route, but there is still sections of heady climbing, with minimal gear through the traverse. A Peter Croft special.
Pitch 1 50m 5.11b, 6 bolts
Scramble up corner to a little belay ledge below 3 bolts where the pitch begins. Delicately climb up the face past 3 bolts (new direct start). Transfer into a shallow corner system and climb up to the right leaning Dyke. Do not climb straight up from dyke. This is a different multipitch that is currently in development. Climb the traversing dyke rightward across the wall to the forested ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: 27m 5.10d, one bolt
Once on the forested ledge traverse right about 9m to the start of pitch 2. A lonely bolt below a traversing crack is the start of pitch 2. Boldy face climb up to crack. Follow the traversing crack to base of cedar tree. Sling tree and make some cruxy moves into a thin crack on the left of tree. Follow the splitter crack to the anchor. Rap from here.
Recommended gear
A single 60m rope and SR to 4". A few double in finger and hand sizes could be useful. 12 alpine draws.
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