Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Andre Ike, Jonny Simms 2006
Page Views: 1,649 total · 13/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Aug 13, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details

Description

See attached topo.

Pitch by pitch details:

P1. Freeway, stop at Daylight crack base.
P2. go up and left, 11-, some thin gear, 15m, good pitch.
p3. 10-, short connector pitch to the sky crag ledge, belay at anchors on the left side of the ledge
p4. 12-, the gettin down corner. Layback and stem your way up this amazing 40m dihedral. 5 stars on its own. Belay at bolts on ledge.
p5. the Hanging corner. 12+. Option 1: hold the anchor chain and start with hard bouldery moves for 2 bolts to the corner. Gear and bolts lead up and away to the hanging corner, with a memorable finish. 12c if you do it this way. OR option 2: free the moves off the ledge with out grabbing the anchor. The FA party held the chains, but freeing it off the anchor ledge is at least a 12d/13a move, and it has been done that way as well. Either way you can pull up and clip the first bolt, making this very well protected. 30m pitch
p.6 5.9 R, but you can link easily with the last pitch for a 55m pitch.
p7. Off the huge ledge, climb funky 5.10 to another anchor. 20m
p8. Flaky chimney to funky arete and face climbing. Worst pitch on the route. 10+/11-. 30m
p9 Sting in the tail, 12-. 20m. moderate climbing leads to 2 bolts to get to the rim, the last 15 feet are funky, balancey.

Location

Branches off from the first pitch anchors of Freeway

Protection

Single set of cams from 1 to 3 camalot. double set of gear from .75 camalot to purple C3, maybe triples on thin fingers. RPs and nuts. a dozen draws and slings

Photos

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