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Stone Free
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Dihedrals
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50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 49.6814, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Andre Ike, Jonny Simms 2006 |
| Page Views: | 2,858 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Aug 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Details
Description
See attached topo.
Pitch by pitch details:
P1. Freeway, stop at Daylight crack base.
P2. go up and left, 11-, some thin gear, 15m, good pitch.
p3. 10-, short connector pitch to the sky crag ledge, belay at anchors on the left side of the ledge
p4. 12-, the gettin down corner. Layback and stem your way up this amazing 40m dihedral. 5 stars on its own. Belay at bolts on ledge.
p5. the Hanging corner. 12+. Option 1: hold the anchor chain and start with hard bouldery moves for 2 bolts to the corner. Gear and bolts lead up and away to the hanging corner, with a memorable finish. 12c if you do it this way. OR option 2: free the moves off the ledge with out grabbing the anchor. The FA party held the chains, but freeing it off the anchor ledge is at least a 12d/13a move, and it has been done that way as well. Either way you can pull up and clip the first bolt, making this very well protected. 30m pitch
p.6 5.9 R, but you can link easily with the last pitch for a 55m pitch.
p7. Off the huge ledge, climb funky 5.10 to another anchor. 20m
p8. Flaky chimney to funky arete and face climbing. Worst pitch on the route. 10+/11-. 30m
p9 Sting in the tail, 12-. 20m. moderate climbing leads to 2 bolts to get to the rim, the last 15 feet are funky, balancey.
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