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Men Holding Hands
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in The Dihedrals
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50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 49.6814, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Andre Ike and Jonny Simms |
| Page Views: | 5,788 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Details
Description
One of the newer and most amazing routes in Squamish. 2 incredible hanging corners await, both checking in at solid 5.12.
p1 and 2: As for Freeway.
p3: Short 5.10 pitch straight off of the daylight crack anchors. Belay on comfy ledge off of bolts. 12m.
p4: "The Science Project" 12b/c 20m. Climb a boulder problem protected by 3 bolts into the ooze. Needs to be cleaned once a year, but way worth it. The wet climbing is 5.10, but you are pumped. Hang out and rest and launch into the tips corner. Usually sports a few fixed wires as it is a tough pitch!
p5: "The Thumb Ratchet Pitch" 12c 20m. One of the best pitches of its grade in Squamish? To be debated, but up there for sure. Launch straight up off the belay. Clip a few bolts, go for it, whip out of the thumb ratchet move. Bring 2 or 3 blue tcu size pieces, 1 or 2 purple tcu's, and a few other pieces up to a 1 camalot. Many people rap from here.
p6: "The Link Pitch" 12b 10m. Go up the corner until you can go right and clip the first of 3 bolts. Face climb your ass off and traverse right to the next belay.
p7 and p8: 2 5.10 pitches take you left of the freeway roof to eventually join up with the express lane finish of freeway (11- 2 more pitches)
Location
Do the first 2 pitches of Freeway, the 11a 'rear ender' and the 'daylight' crack (usually done as 1 55m pitch). Instead of going right as for freeway, continue straight up to the 'Heavy Hitter's Ledge" via a 12m 5.10 pitch. Belay at the chains and keep going up! You can rap the route with 2 ropes after the next two crux pitches or continue to the top via Freeway and walk off.
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