Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Andre Ike and Jonny Simms|
|Page Views:||4,903 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
p1 and 2: As for Freeway.
p3: Short 5.10 pitch straight off of the daylight crack anchors. Belay on comfy ledge off of bolts. 12m.
p4: "The Science Project" 12b/c 20m. Climb a boulder problem protected by 3 bolts into the ooze. Needs to be cleaned once a year, but way worth it. The wet climbing is 5.10, but you are pumped. Hang out and rest and launch into the tips corner. Usually sports a few fixed wires as it is a tough pitch!
p5: "The Thumb Ratchet Pitch" 12c 20m. One of the best pitches of its grade in Squamish? To be debated, but up there for sure. Launch straight up off the belay. Clip a few bolts, go for it, whip out of the thumb ratchet move. Bring 2 or 3 blue tcu size pieces, 1 or 2 purple tcu's, and a few other pieces up to a 1 camalot. Many people rap from here.
p6: "The Link Pitch" 12b 10m. Go up the corner until you can go right and clip the first of 3 bolts. Face climb your ass off and traverse right to the next belay.
p7 and p8: 2 5.10 pitches take you left of the freeway roof to eventually join up with the express lane finish of freeway (11- 2 more pitches)