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Sea of Tranquility
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in The Dihedrals
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50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6814, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Jacob Cook, Drew Marshall, Aug 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,543 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Marshall on May 7, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Details
Description
A full height route in the Western Dihedrals of the Chief, featuring a soaring two-pitch corner in the middle of the wall. The route is characterized by airy, technical climbing, requiring clean footwork. Slab-haters may avoid the first four pitches via Warriors of the Wasteland to climb “Warriors of Tranquillity”.
Pitch 1: The Approach Pitch 12c 20m sport. Low angle slab that feels almost like an apron pitch…
Pitches 2-4 The Seas of Serenity
Pitch 2: 11d, 25m (sport)
Pitch 3: 12d, 25m (sport) Thin, balancey, insecure, tenuous, slippery dyke climbing at its finest. Probably the crux for most people.
Pitch 4: 12b, 45m (gear to #.75) Traverse leftward into a baffling offset seam. Cruise up the splitter crack and arête above. Significantly easier than pitches 1 and 3.
Pitch 5: The Free of Tranquility 13a, 40m (single rack to #2) From the Tree of Tranquility climb the endless enduro tips corner past multiple cruxes and a no-feet rest. An awesome pitch.
Pitch 6: The Ocean of Crisis 12d, 40m (small nuts and cams to #.75) Clip a bolt then rage up the corner placing small gear until it is possible to wildly traverse left to the exposed arête. From here one last heartbreaker crux guards the easier blocky scramble to the chains.
Pitch 7: Sports Illustrated 11d, 30m (sport) Excellent technical face climbing through the blobs.
Pitch 8: 10d, 30m (single rack) Continue up the arête then traverse left into Clean Corner, be wary of some loose chockstones in the chimney. Or, go straight up the incredible unclimbed 5.14(?) fridge-hugging prow, bring some bolts for this variation.
Descent: Rappel from anywhere on the route with an 80m rope and some shenanigans, or walk off.
History: In 1990 Perry Beckham and Bill Noble rappelled in and established Sports Illustrated, as a wild hanging single pitch. The corner was first aid-climbed by Matt Maddaloni around 2000. Then around 2015 Luke Neufeld and friends put considerable effort toward cleaning, bolting and climbing the first 5 pitches. Jacob Cook and I prepped the rest of the pitches and climbed the route continuously in August 2020.
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