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Routes in The Dihedrals

Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gauntlet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Millenium Falcon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Colin Morehead
Page Views: 1,647 total · 14/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details

Description [Edit]

I haven't done it yet, only parts of it, but it is a new long route on the chief, a little scruffy in parts, but quality pitches to be had. See attached topo at quickdrawpublications.com/T…

Location [Edit]

Left of Deadend Dihedral and right of Millenium Falcon. Walk off to the chief trail as per other routes in this area.

Protection [Edit]

Double set of gear from purple tcu to hand size, with a #4 and 5 camalot. Bolted anchors

Photos

Alex Ford
Seattle, Washington
 
Alex Ford   Seattle, Washington
 
Found this to be an excellent, if perhaps less-frequented, outing. We'd some minor route-finding confusion working from (2012) Squamish Select, as both the photo-topo in that book and the attached topo on this page are out of date.

P1-3: These would make an excellent outing on their own, and could be rapped on a single 60M via the Sunset Strip rap line. P3 (the fantastic .11a corner) has a bolted anchor about halfway up the pitch that can be easily used to cut down the burl factor. Off this intermediate belay there was a short OW feature that protects very well with a #5 C4, but could be liebacked without too much trouble.

P4: This is described as a "hard step right from the belay". We instead continued up the box corner, shared with Sunset Strip, from the belay and exited right via a short overhanging hand crack. An exit left here would keep you on Sunset Strip, bypassing the .11c P5.

P5: Wow. Such fun, much hard. Expect thin nuts and cerebral climbing after exiting the obvious corner above you.

P6: Very short. A near top-rope with a #5 C4, or a potentially slab-slapping fall without.

P7+: Step down & left to join the final 4 pitches shared with Sunset Strip. The finish of Gauntlet, as described in the topo, appeared quite dirty.

All in all, this was a great climb. Would definitely recommend the full climb, climbing P1-3 alone from the base, or using P1-3 as a variation to add a touch of .11a to Sunset Strip. Jul 5, 2016
A good rack would be:
doubles or triples .1 to .4
doubles .5 to 2
1 #3
1 #5
1-2 sets of nuts (preferably offset) including RPs
15 draws Jun 8, 2017
Alexander K
The road
  5.11c
Alexander K   The road
  5.11c
The original Gauntlet finish, currently dirty but the crux is plenty clean and it makes it easy to skip the hanging belay in the chimney:

P7-8 -same as Sunset Strip
P9 -Traverse right, instead of going up the wide crack step out onto the face, clip a bolt and head up and right into easier, mossy climbing, 2 bolt anchor in small alcove below the bush and just above the rock scar.
P10 -Climb up through some dirty cracks and regrowing shrubs (could be much nicer if cleaned) placing a couple small/medium sized cams. Reach up and clip a bolt, pull the bulge (5.11b crux) clipping a 2nd bolt. Clip a 3rd bolt out right and then keep climbing up merging with the Sunset strip undercling pitch, ~4 more bolts will take you to the anchor. Clip the anchor, skip the hanging belay and then continue straight up into the chimney (5 more draws required). All told 15-18 draws would be nice for this pitch, including extending the pieces you placed early on. Jul 17, 2017

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