Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Colin Morehead
Page Views: 1,802 total · 14/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details


I haven't done it yet, only parts of it, but it is a new long route on the chief, a little scruffy in parts, but quality pitches to be had. See attached topo at quickdrawpublications.com/T…


Left of Deadend Dihedral and right of Millenium Falcon. Walk off to the chief trail as per other routes in this area.


Double set of gear from purple tcu to hand size, with a #4 and 5 camalot. Bolted anchors


Alex Ford
Seattle, Washington
Alex Ford   Seattle, Washington
Found this to be an excellent, if perhaps less-frequented, outing. We'd some minor route-finding confusion working from (2012) Squamish Select, as both the photo-topo in that book and the attached topo on this page are out of date.

P1-3: These would make an excellent outing on their own, and could be rapped on a single 60M via the Sunset Strip rap line. P3 (the fantastic .11a corner) has a bolted anchor about halfway up the pitch that can be easily used to cut down the burl factor. Off this intermediate belay there was a short OW feature that protects very well with a #5 C4, but could be liebacked without too much trouble.

P4: This is described as a "hard step right from the belay". We instead continued up the box corner, shared with Sunset Strip, from the belay and exited right via a short overhanging hand crack. An exit left here would keep you on Sunset Strip, bypassing the .11c P5.

P5: Wow. Such fun, much hard. Expect thin nuts and cerebral climbing after exiting the obvious corner above you.

P6: Very short. A near top-rope with a #5 C4, or a potentially slab-slapping fall without.

P7+: Step down & left to join the final 4 pitches shared with Sunset Strip. The finish of Gauntlet, as described in the topo, appeared quite dirty.

All in all, this was a great climb. Would definitely recommend the full climb, climbing P1-3 alone from the base, or using P1-3 as a variation to add a touch of .11a to Sunset Strip. Jul 5, 2016
A good rack would be:
doubles or triples .1 to .4
doubles .5 to 2
1 #3
1 #5
1-2 sets of nuts (preferably offset) including RPs
15 draws Jun 8, 2017
Alexander K
The road
Alexander K   The road
The original Gauntlet finish, currently dirty but the crux is plenty clean and it makes it easy to skip the hanging belay in the chimney:

P7-8 -same as Sunset Strip
P9 -Traverse right, instead of going up the wide crack step out onto the face, clip a bolt and head up and right into easier, mossy climbing, 2 bolt anchor in small alcove below the bush and just above the rock scar.
P10 -Climb up through some dirty cracks and regrowing shrubs (could be much nicer if cleaned) placing a couple small/medium sized cams. Reach up and clip a bolt, pull the bulge (5.11b crux) clipping a 2nd bolt. Clip a 3rd bolt out right and then keep climbing up merging with the Sunset strip undercling pitch, ~4 more bolts will take you to the anchor. Clip the anchor, skip the hanging belay and then continue straight up into the chimney (5 more draws required). All told 15-18 draws would be nice for this pitch, including extending the pieces you placed early on. Jul 17, 2017