Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 14 pitches
FA: Kris Wild & co.
Page Views: 7,188 total · 49/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details

Description

14 pitch route to the 1st (South) summit of the chief. A good mix of sport and trad climbing, with difficulties similar to those of the Grand Wall, except more 5.10+ climbing, tending towards the technical, with less strenuous laybacking. The shady nature of this route makes it a good hot-day choice.

P1) Follow dirty treed ramps up and right to move into a clean 5.8 chimney from it's bottom left side.

P2) Up thin left-facing corners and cracks, moving right to the belay. 5.10d

P3) Up the splitter crack (finger and ring locks) then left on delicate face holds, and into another thin crack which leads to a solitary bolt and a few hard face moves on the arete. 5.10d

P4) Sustained and technical arete climbing on all bolts. 5.11a

P5) Clean and fun chimney, with many opportunities for small gear. At ~5m up, step left out of the chimney and into a corner for a short stretch. 5.8

P6) Tricky moves around to the left quickly lead to a loose, blocky groove and easy climbing. 5.9

P7) Walk left on Trichome Ledge to the end, and begin with a technical crux sequence and mantle onto a horizontal footrail. Tiptoe across to the left, then follow great flakes and cracks up to belay. 5.10d

P8) Follow the steep corner crack to its end, at the trunk of the magical tree. From the tree, move up and then directly right to belay. This is a very good pitch, and likely the most strenuous of the route. It demands jamming in a variety of sizes. 5.10d

P9)From the right side of the belay ledge, follow the scenic arete for 30m, passing 3 bolts. Flakes and cracks are available for protection as well. 5.9

P10) Layback up the clean finger crack, then face climb to the base of the chimney. Getting in the chimney is not recommended. The moves between the two bolts can be protected with a blue alien out to the right side. The top of this pitch seemed hard for the grade. Ends at Bellygood Ledge (possible walkoff to the right). 5.10b

P11) Traverse left 30m from the last pitch, and find belay bolts near a fir tree. This pitch features 25m of high-quality face climbing on interesting holds. with only 4 bolts, it doesn't feel like a "sport pitch" but most difficult moves have bolts nearby. 5.10a

P12) Devious moves off the belay (I started way out right) lead up to several bolts and into a left-trending flake and crack system. Eventually step right around a small roof, and back left to the belay. 5.10c

P13) Follow the left of two bolted lines. Along a dike and past a small roof for 35m on all bolts. 5.11a

P14) Up left on easy dyke holds, and then back right again with increasing difficulty. Fully bolted. This is known as the "Gold Medal Ribbon". 5.11a/b

Note: An alternative P13 and P14 are just to the right. A bolted arching corner leading to a long rightward step-across. 5.10b - Move belay to far right edge of ledge - Up the long sustained finger crack. Somewhat licheny, but a very good pitch. 5.10c

From either ending, the walkoff trail is reached by heading up and left across a slab and into the woods.

Location

This route is in the far left edge of the dihedrals, just right of Arrowroot and Rutabega. The backside trail can easily be descended in sandals, and can be reached by walking right at Bellygood ledge (P10) or up and left from the true top-out.

Protection

Gear to 4" with doubles in small and medium cams. 12 runners or draws. All anchors are new and features rings and bolts.

Photos