Avg: 3.2 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 14 pitches|
|FA:||Kris Wild & co.|
|Page Views:||7,775 total · 48/month|
|Shared By:||blakeherrington on Aug 18, 2008|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
P1) Follow dirty treed ramps up and right to move into a clean 5.8 chimney from it's bottom left side.
P2) Up thin left-facing corners and cracks, moving right to the belay. 5.10d
P3) Up the splitter crack (finger and ring locks) then left on delicate face holds, and into another thin crack which leads to a solitary bolt and a few hard face moves on the arete. 5.10d
P4) Sustained and technical arete climbing on all bolts. 5.11a
P5) Clean and fun chimney, with many opportunities for small gear. At ~5m up, step left out of the chimney and into a corner for a short stretch. 5.8
P6) Tricky moves around to the left quickly lead to a loose, blocky groove and easy climbing. 5.9
P7) Walk left on Trichome Ledge to the end, and begin with a technical crux sequence and mantle onto a horizontal footrail. Tiptoe across to the left, then follow great flakes and cracks up to belay. 5.10d
P8) Follow the steep corner crack to its end, at the trunk of the magical tree. From the tree, move up and then directly right to belay. This is a very good pitch, and likely the most strenuous of the route. It demands jamming in a variety of sizes. 5.10d
P9)From the right side of the belay ledge, follow the scenic arete for 30m, passing 3 bolts. Flakes and cracks are available for protection as well. 5.9
P10) Layback up the clean finger crack, then face climb to the base of the chimney. Getting in the chimney is not recommended. The moves between the two bolts can be protected with a blue alien out to the right side. The top of this pitch seemed hard for the grade. Ends at Bellygood Ledge (possible walkoff to the right). 5.10b
P11) Traverse left 30m from the last pitch, and find belay bolts near a fir tree. This pitch features 25m of high-quality face climbing on interesting holds. with only 4 bolts, it doesn't feel like a "sport pitch" but most difficult moves have bolts nearby. 5.10a
P12) Devious moves off the belay (I started way out right) lead up to several bolts and into a left-trending flake and crack system. Eventually step right around a small roof, and back left to the belay. 5.10c
P13) Follow the left of two bolted lines. Along a dike and past a small roof for 35m on all bolts. 5.11a
P14) Up left on easy dyke holds, and then back right again with increasing difficulty. Fully bolted. This is known as the "Gold Medal Ribbon". 5.11a/b
Note: An alternative P13 and P14 are just to the right. A bolted arching corner leading to a long rightward step-across. 5.10b - Move belay to far right edge of ledge - Up the long sustained finger crack. Somewhat licheny, but a very good pitch. 5.10c
From either ending, the walkoff trail is reached by heading up and left across a slab and into the woods.