Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Colin Moorhead and Andre Ike (2002)|
|Page Views:||1,319 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Travis McClinchey on Jul 6, 2015|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
P1: Same as Warriors of the Wasteland.
P2: Climb P2 of Warriors of the Wasteland. After the crux stem of this pitch, break out right and clip a couple bolts on easier and slabby terrain to an anchor before the wall steepens to vertical.
P3: This pitch is completely bolted. Weave up the arete, using a variety of techniques. The climbing is superb and will make you think!
A 30m rappel will get you down to a set of anchors to the right of fall line. The route your rappel is called "Shaken, Not Stirred" which is 5.11b and also apparently a worth-while climb. From these anchors, rappel a 60m stretcher to the start of Freeway.