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Routes in The Dihedrals

Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gauntlet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Millenium Falcon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 12 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,004 total, 221/month
Shared By: Adrian Lazar on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details

Description

Beta from http://squamishclimbingsource.com/sunset-strip/

A significant new multi pitch line in the Western Dihedrals. With the exception of Crap Crags, this is the easiest free route to breach the West Face of the Chief. That said, it is very sustained at 5.10, harder than Angels Crest but easier than the Grand.

Sunset Strip utilizes sections of other climbs, Sticky Fingers, Millennium Falcon, Crap Crags, and The Gauntlet, with about 70% new terrain to create a very direct and interesting line up the Chief.

The route has 12 pitches, several pitches can be linked and it is likely that many teams will repeat the route in 9 or 10 pitches. That said, the shorter pitches take advantage of good belay stances, decrease rope drag, and will reduce the size of rack required. The route is very well protected with several bolts added to the previously bold upper sections of The Gauntlet. Being located in the Western Dihedrals the route will be subject to annual peregrine falcon closures, although in 2013 there is no such closure in effect.


1. 5.10c. Sticky Fingers. Step off fortuitously lodged boulder onto a desperate slab move past a new bolt. Follow right leaning thin finger cracks until possible to escape left onto large ledge system. 35m.

2. 5.10a. Layback the edge of a wide corner past two bolts. Continue up fun chimney (end of p.1 of Millennium Falcon) to a belay atop a small tower. 18m.


3. 5.10b. Two variations at the start provide the crux, the right hand being slightly easier. Beautiful and continuous finger cracks linking several left facing corners pull out to the right to a stance on the open slabs, (this is p. 2 of Millennium Falcon). 40m.

4. 5.10c. Climb the finger crack straight up into an off fingers flare, cruxy moves around a bulge to small stance at the base of “box” corner feature. 18m.

5. 5.9. Climb up the box corner, passing blocky roofs on the left. 20m.

6. 5.10b. Step right into short flare feature, exit the flare by laybacking leaning corner, easier climbing leads to a large belay ledge. 20m.

7. 5.10a. Climb past bolt to left facing corners, an aesthetic undercling leads to small belay stance. 20m. The 5.8 chimney pitch of Millennium Falcon is just to the right.

8. 5.8. Left facing corners give way to broken, low 5th class ramps, follow right trending ramp to its end. (The upper part of this pitch is Crap Crags). 30m.

9. 5.10d. Face climb past 5 bolts to an exciting left facing corner. Continue up easier grooves taking care not to miss the belay stance out right on the arete. (This is pitch 8 of the Gauntlet). 25m.

10. 5.10a. Traverse right from the belay to access excellent hand/fist crack on the basalt infused headwall. The belay anchor is hidden from view on a small ledge to the left. 25m.

11. 5.10d. Traverse right in a wild position, face climbing and gravelly underclings lead to a short, steep crux. Fully bolt protected. 15m.

12. 5.9. Steep and exposed chimneying, finishing with a short squeezer. Entirely fixed with 4 bolts and one piton. (this is the last half p.10 of The Gauntlet). 15m.

Protection

Belays are all fixed and rappel anchors are installed to the top of pitch 7. The route can be rappelled from pitch 7 down with one 60m rope. From the top of pitch 3 the single rope rappel line is down to the right towards the Gauntlet and will require a bit of route finding and care to make it work. There is currently fixed lines on the Gauntlet, please do not use these ropes or change the rigging in any way.

Rack: A single set of cams to #4 BD and nuts, 2 X .3, .4, .5, and .75 BD, should be enough for most people.
Eric Hirst  
 
I really like the bottom of this route, but didn't like the upper pitches as much. My new favorite variation is the Sunset Falcon option: climb P1-P7 and then continue on Millennium Falcon. Still 10d assuming you stop at Bellygood, and better in my opinion than either MF or SS alone. Sep 7, 2017
This climb is amazing. Easily one of the best routes of my life.

Link pitch 11 (only 10b, not 10d) and pitch 12 to avoid a hanging belay. Aug 24, 2017
Salcone
Fort Collins, Colorado
Salcone   Fort Collins, Colorado
Great rock, great gear. Those without yokes should note this route has LOTS of laybacking. I do NOT recommend linking pitches 2 & 3, just too long and sustained. But 4 & 5 link well, as do 7 & 8 (or 6 & 7). Pitch 12 is the crux of the route, if you're tall and/or hate chimneys. Pitch 11 is more like 10b. No perfect splitters like the Grand, but a great mix of granite face, fingers, hands, fists, chim, and most of all, layback. Jul 27, 2017
Might be a heretic for saying this, but I think this is a better climb then the Grand Jul 27, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
A few thoughts on this route.

1) It's really good- like, kind of incredible if you're looking for a long route with a ton of moderate 5.10 climbing.

2) It's also really easy to link alot of pitches (more below) and save a ton of time.

3) Rack: Doubles to green camalot, singles to 4" Nothing below a blue alien size. A handful of medium stoppers. 12-14 draws if you're linking pitches.

4) You can link Pitches 1&2, 4&5, 7&8, 9&10 really easily and we did all but the last link. If you do link 9&10, make sure to save your hand to fist size pieces for pitch 10.

5) IMHO, the most sustained climbing is Pitch 4, and it's 5.10c. It's also not green camalots- its purple camalots. Two was fine, but if you're firing at your limit on this pitch, bring three.

6) The 5.10 face climbing up high is only 5.10c at most.

7) The final pitch would be way easier if the bolts were moved further into the chimney. The first bolt on this pitch would also be alot nicer if it was a foot or two lower.

Definitely get on this route- it's spectacular and with the exception of Pitch 8, every pitch is memorable and fun. Jul 19, 2017
fivefun  
The chimney pitch starts with good feet and ends with a diagonal rail for your hands. It's an honest 5.9 but not harder. That said, of the 3 parties ahead of us all did some serious hanging in the chimney due to backpack shenanigans. It was easy to untie at the top and lower down a loop of rope to haul out extra gear for my follower. Aug 21, 2016
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
 
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
 
Awesome route destined for classic status. The 5.10c finger crack pitch was the highlight for me, but each pitch was excellent and unique. We combined pitches 2+3, 4+5, and 11+12.

I am admittedly terrible at chimneying but the last pitch felt real hard for 5.9. Aug 8, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I found the rack beta posted above to be spot on. If you were intimidated by the route, I'd bring more small gear. (purple-yellow tcus) Extra big gear would be wasted weight. Sep 8, 2015
Adrian Lazar  
 
We linked the pitches as follows and it worked wonders if you take care managing rope drag (have 2x double length draws, and about half a dozen single length draws)

- p2 + p3 ... full 60m
- p5 + p6 ... approx. 50m+
- p7 + p8 ... full 60m

It's possible to link p4 + p5 too, but I think p5 + p6 is a better option

p9 has a fixed mangled up metollius cam.

Super, duper route! Get on it during the week in the afternoon to avoid the crowds. Aug 14, 2015
Jessica T
seattle, wa
  5.10b/c
Jessica T   seattle, wa
  5.10b/c
This is a fun route, soft for the grade of 10d, maybe more like 10c overall. Chimney was the hardest pitch, takes some time to figure it out!

Combine the off fingers and 5.9 pitch for long pitch. Works well.

Single rack to 4, set of nuts, with double purple and green Camelot, double yellow aliens too. Jun 1, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10+
Wonderful route and destined for mass popularity once it is listed in the guidebooks.

Sustained, well protected, moderate 5.10 climbing with occasional short, harder cruxes. Can't miss the start. It's down and right of Rutabega about 100 yards or so and starts off a rock at a bolt.

Easier than the Grand Wall, and is someways more enjoyable due to the varied climbing and lack of any bolt ladders.

I was happy with nuts, double set of cams from small to #3 camalot. And one #4 camalot.


The 10c crack crux on P4 will get your attention. Well protected, but expect it to be hard. Green camalots in a flare. The first 10d pitch has fun face climbing to a a few moves in a physical corner crack. The 10a hand/fist crack is really cool and has great exposure. I' m a wuss and walked the #4 up between the bolts. The 10d traverse is super well protected for both leader and follower. I loved the chimney pitch. Well protected by 4 bolts and a pin (and optional #3 camalot for the dismount). I left my rack behind and pulled it up with the pack. Making your second follow the pitch with a pack would be cruel and unusual punishment!

1000' of perfect Squamish granite with only about 50' of "throw away" climbing. It ends right at the trail off Bellygood.

Get on it!

Additional info: squamishclimbingsource.com/… Aug 7, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
squamishclimbing.com/squami….
The only part that feels like 10d is the section with 5 bolts. And I thought the chimney was really hard. After reaching the top I hauled the packs up the chimney. My favorite pitch was the off fingers so called 10d. Jun 19, 2014