Avg: 3.9 from 102
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Access Issue: Camping
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Access Issue: FALCON NESTING ROUTE CLOSURE - FROM THE GRAND WALL TO SUNSET STRIP
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This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.
P1, Slab climb past several bolts to a belay at a tree (10d).
P2, Steep corner with two bolts to bolted belay (11b).
P3, climb daylight crack(fists) for a bit then traverse down and right along slopey ledge to a bolted belay.
P4, climb long left facing corner with two distinct cruxes to a bolted belay (11c).
P5, Another long pitch climbing corner then face to the truck stop ledge below a large roof (11a).
P6, climb through the awesome roof out to the left (11c).
P7, Traverse straight right from the belay, then straight up on face holds (11a).
P8, Down and right to a short corner, up then right to a finger crack, leading to a belay below a large roof (10c).
P9, Left up thin cracks then right to belay at deep corner (11a).
P10, Climb offwidth corner (10a R).
P11, climb the steep bolted arete to the top (10d).
Fixed anchors at every belay
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Great climb! Aug 1, 2007
Squamish, BC
p1: Skip it via the fixed line to the right.
p2 and p3: Link together no problem. p2 is 11a.
After the Autobahn (the traversing pitch above the roof) do the express lane finish, not the original, way better! Step down and right off the belay, but then up and then back left to the occasional bolt. 4 bolts in total where you need them, but 5.10- where there are no bolts. Heads up. Continue up the bolted face and arete to the top in one 50m pitch. Sep 10, 2007
BC
The climbing is fantastic; hard but well protected with lots of variety and sustained at a solid level between the distinct cruxes. May 19, 2008
on the road
To rap Freeway Lite, you'll need two ropes.
Also, gear up before climbing the jungle-style 3rd class since the slopping, moss-ledge belay at the start of P2 isn't a great place to do so and you don't want to leave packs there since the rap route doesn't take you back there. Aug 18, 2009
Squamish, BC
I'd just like to throw my two cents in about the classic finish to Freeway. Over the years I've heard numerous comments detracting from the quality of the original finish saying the Express Lanes are way better (mostly from folks who haven't done the original). Don't get me wrong the Express Lanes offer excellent climbing with superb position, the climbing is well protected and straight forward, once you've pulled the roof pitches you know you've got it in the bag.
Before the addition of the Express Lanes, Freeway was quite a bit more bad ass, you sure didn't feel home free after the roof. A classic .10d finger crack, a technical RP protected .11a stem corner, and a wide .10a crack with serious ledge fall potential still stood between you and the chains. All varied, technical, and slightly spicy climbing.
In conclusion, the Express Lanes are an easier, less committing finish that offers nice climbing. But if you really haven't done Freeway until you've done the classic finish.
End rant. May 8, 2010
Bishop, CA
Squamish
Swung leads up Freeway last weekend and loved it. We did the original finish and I thought it was great (though, I haven't done express lane). The first 5 pitches really beat me up which made the end feel a hell of a lot harder than I think it should have. Fell on the 11c dihedral pitch at the crux 5 times before we made it up the pitch. And the roofs are just unbelievable.
Cannot say enough about this climb. Go. Do it. Love it. Oct 9, 2012
Chattanooga, TN
I would bring a single purple C3, then doubles from green C3 to #1 camalot and a single #2, #3. We placed a ton of nuts. No need for a #4 camalot. You could place the #4 on the daylight crack, but that's it and the #3 fits shortly.
For P7 Make sure to go straight up after the first bolt. The pitch has two pitons right next to each other, then a bolt. The second bolt is way high up and you might not be able to see it. There is an anchor way out right but it is for another route.
Rad climbing, despite not too much jamming. The second long dihedral may feel closer to 11b and not too much easier than the first.
If taking the express lane finish, make sure to bring at least a single rack of cams from green alien to #2 camalot for the first pitch. Aug 12, 2013
Retreat: I believe you could rap, in a pinch, from as high as the Truck Stop with a single 70m rope leaving behind minimal, if any, gear by using various anchors from other routes. We didn't test this but I was paying attention on the way up. Beyond the Truck Stop it would still be possible, though problematic, due to the traversing and overhanging nature of the roof pitch.
Route Finding & Links: Luke mentions this but I will also because this is an easy mistake to make: On the traverse after the roof pitch above the Truck Stop, head directly right from the anchor passing two bolts. At the second bolt, head straight up (past gear and a third bolt) to the belay; DO NOT continue right. I recommend linking the roof pitch with this one (don't clip the anchor above the roof), thus eliminating the only hanging belay on the route. Also, link the Daylight Crack into the 5.10 sloper traverse.
Express Lane: I don't know how the original finish is but the position of the Express Lane finish is ridiculous. However, after all the well-protected climbing leading up to it, I was surprised to find one or two spots that could result in a serious ledgefall - exercise caution. Sep 14, 2016
We cut left on P7 and took the Express Lane variation. Just a heads up if you go via that route. Cutting left on P7 mostly involves face climbing with a few random bolts for pro (four in total), but there is a section toward the end of the pitch where you must pull some fairly challenging moves over a large ledge with limited pro. There are two bolts to protect this section, but the two bolts are not sufficient to keep you off the ledge if you were to blow it in the wrong place. The variation only has two bolts for nearly 45' of 5.10+ face climbing over a ledge. Sep 29, 2016
The road
Also the rack beta given is right on the money, but a blue/green alien offset could be placed in a very convenient place on the roof pitch (think towards the end). While this isn't essential, it would have made it easier to commit to the moves as the pump set in. Jul 5, 2017
Bend, OR
Firstly, unless I misunderstood things, the fastest finish shares the last two bolts with the expressway variation. These are the two bolts that everyone has been talking about having ledgefall potential. Many meters into a lead this makes sense. Belaying at the huge ledge below what is the first bolt of the classic finish, it's totally fine.
Secondly, the 11a thin pitch is a little heady and harder for the short. Don't blow it as there actually is real ledgefall potential.
Thirdly, I was cursing Colin for 20 minutes at the base of the 10a wide pitch while waiting for my partner to come up. From below, it looks dirty, loose, and marginally protected. After climbing it, (bringing the #4 was for sure worth it) it was clear that its bark is way, way worse than its bite. It felt pretty mellow, secure, and well protected. There is one thin flake out on the face that you have to step on that likely will be gone someday, otherwise it was pretty cruiser. Jul 25, 2017
Golden, CO
1) I’m sure Luke’s rack beta is spot on for most, but I was happy having triples in the yellow alien/metolious through #.5 camalot sizes. This was especially helpful for the long 11a pitch that leads to the truckstop. Not totally necessary, but nice.
2) It seems like a lot of folks (including me) break the fourth pitch up by belaying at the horn/ledge below the thin steep section. By doing so you’re belayer is right there with you as you climb the crux moves of the fourth pitch. It’s nice to have a #1 for this belay.
3) The Express Lane finish certainly has it’s “heady” moments, but it’s really not that bad. Yes, there is ledge fall potential, but if you’ve made it to Express Lane you’ll be fine. Using 48” runners or doubling up alpine slings in a couple spots on the 11a pitch helps a lot with the rope drag. Jun 16, 2019
Squamish, BC
Re: Expressway's ledge fall potential. It's protected by a reachy bolt and is EXTRA spicy for short climbs. My partner, who has a short reach (5'2ish), was about 2 inches shy of being able to clip the bolt before the crux 5.11a-ish move. She once fell at the crux without clipping and fortuitously narrowly missed one ledge, and stopped before the second, larger ledge. Thin gear (0.2?) protected her from hitting that second ledge, and she proceeded to send it second go! I would reckon having a 5'6" span or more would really take the edge off of the poorly placed bolt (the bolt is 1 foot away from good gear... why it's placed so high is beyond me). Jul 15, 2020
Little Rock, AR
The pitches after the truck stop ledge are short, so it’s enticing to try and link pitches, but this mostly resulted in huge rope drag. I would link P6&7 (roof and traverse) again and just deal with the rope drag, but linking P8&9 wasn’t worth it because your belayer is out of sight for the “11a thin” move, which has a small ledge fall potential. If it’s your first time up the route, I think you’ll find the climbing more enjoyable if you just pitch it all out.
We didn’t bring a #4 and didn’t miss it. Sep 7, 2021
Montreal, QUÉBEC
The 11a thin corner is ledgy and is the only place where your could take a bad fall. The belayer needs to be watching you very close. The next wide pitch near the top can be protected with a slung chock stone and a Camalot 4 and felt quite easy. Go get it! Jul 23, 2022
San Mateo, CA
P1 is good slab climbing with logical bolting (and no contrived ledgefalls like on the Express Lane). More people should climb it to keep it clean.
The #0.1 cam wasn't useful at all and the green brass offset was the smallest nut I used (finished via the Express Lane). Also definitely bring a stiffy draw for the Express Lane if you're under 5'5"; almost every bolt is reachy. Jul 23, 2023
Bishop