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Mind Over Matter
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Camouflage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Concentric T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Wave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mind Your Bulging Codpiece T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rincon Dink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Rincon Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | Ed Webster |
| Page Views: | 1,983 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is another good toprope problem between Rincon and Five Ten Crack. It crosses a small overlap about twenty feet up and takes a seam to a ledge. The crux is right past the overlap, insecure face climbing, the "5.10" seam above is more like .11a/b, this route [doesn't] get led much for obvious reasons, yet is a great toprope, it also feels quite a bit harder than Raccoon Soup maybe in the 11d/12a range.
Per Adam Brink: this is a top quality and neglected, 5.11, Eldo slab testpiece that has been largely ignored because of an undeserved reputation. If this route was on the gritstone in England, it would be a classic must do for every E4 aspiring leader and regularly sprayed all over Instagram. Instead, it is an ignored mini-classic, because it is at one of the best trad crags in Eldo, and most Boulderites have gotten a bit soft and aren't willing to face a small runout. It really is a sad state of affairs.
Go directly up to the overlap (which is harder and slightly illogical once you try it) or go up 5.10 crack to the obvious foot ledge, and traverse left to the bottom of the over lap. At this point, there are actually 2 pieces that might hold. We pull tested them from the ground, and they felt solid (fall on them at your own risk). You can also use two ropes and put an RP in 5.10 crack where you traverse left. This made it feel plenty safe. Climb over the little roof, place lots of good, small gear, and have a spanking fun time on the thin climbing above.
There is maybe one or two moves of 5.11a and the rest is 5.9 or 5.10. All of it is quality, thin climbing. Go ground up, and enjoy the excitement in a proper way. Bring the adventure back to Eldo.
Protection
Didn't check out the pro on this one, there might be some in the overlap, but it would suck, the seam above might take some rp's, but of course that's after the crux.
Per Adam Brink: the protection is better than it looks at first. With 2 ropes, it is probably more like PG13. Place a #5 RP high in the 5.10 crack for your right rope where you traverse left. Place a couple pieces for your left rope at the bottom of the overlap. Pull the small roof, and place bomber gear. With this gear set up, there is little chance of decking unless you totally blow it after pulling the roof.
2 Comments