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Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Stewart Green and Ian Green, 1994
Page Views: 3,141 total · 17/month
Shared By: Stewart M. Green on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This excellent face route is up the face just right of "Village Idiot." Climb jugs up a steep slab past 2 bolts to a bolt at a left-diagonalling dike. Fun climbing leads up left along the dike past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor shared with "Village Idiot." If you're a competent 5.7 climber, you will have no problem with the protection. If you're not, you may have a problem with mind control, since it is somewhat runout.


Small to medium wired Stoppers, possible green Alien, plus 4 bolts.


Stewart M. Green  
4 bolts in 100 feet. So runouts up to 25 feet. If you need more gear, then bring the Stoppers. 1 200-foot or 1 ropes to get off by rappel from the 2-bolt anchor. May 4, 2003
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
I found that the few spots where gear could be placed were easy, and it seemed more reasonable to just continue upwards rather than fiddle around with stoppers, etc. That said, this is a great climb, and the bolts are where they are needed. I thought the moves to the first bolt were the crux, probably due to the prospect of a nasty fall into boulders below. Feb 3, 2004
Kris Carter
Kris Carter  
I agree that the crux seemed to be down low & that is a nasty landing. Really fun route - definitely some room between the bolts & I did actually place 1 nut - but as I have said before I am a wuss. Next time I think we'll go ahead & climb the 2nd pitch to the top. Do Village Idiot once you get to the anchors - also a great climb, much easier on TR. May 10, 2004
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Good solid climb with 2 small stopper placements.. May 29, 2004
Zendance is a good name as leader must "zen" out. The rating is good (7-) for how difficult the climb is. Just repeat that to yourself when you're leading. It's [facey] but has good feet. After the 2nd or 3rd bolt I placed a .5 cam in a small crack then I got a #2.5 cam in at, well the only place you'll see that one will go.The smaller nut placements mentioned are (I think) for the final stretch, which is run out but on secure footing. Jun 27, 2005
Andrew Ingraham
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
Very cool route. You definitely want a 60 meter rope. I broke my ankle after being belayed off the end of a 150 foot rope here while lowering. I think I cut loose at the second or third bolt and took about a 30 to 40 foot slide into those nasty boulders (easily preventable). The climbing is great, I think I remember placing a nut between the first and second bolt or maybe the second and third but if you're a strong 5.7 leader you shouldn't need to. Apr 3, 2006
Cool route, 4 pieces in 100 ft was a bit light. Nothing like taking a 50 ft'er if you blow the clip. Used a green Alien in the seam, technical crux was right off the ground, mental crux right before the second bolt, cuz you're gonna deck, no question, if you miss that clip. Jun 21, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Good route, but definitely run out between bolts. Crux is the start of the route -- at least mentally. Alternate (safer) start is to climb the crack about 15 ft right of Zendance then make a very short traverse left to join Zendance about 40 ft up. Good gear placements in the crack -- but need someone to follow and clean because the crack makes the route too long even for a 70m rope to reach the grnd. Zendance shares two cold shut anchors with Village Idiot. Even rapping straight down from the anchors, beware its a VERY LONG rap back to the start. Tie knots in the end of your rope! I used almost all of my 70m rope on the rap straight down. Jun 26, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Great, scaryass lead on solid features. I got in a small nut before the first bolt and another between bolts 1 and 2 (otherwise it's a groundfall). Really don't trust that either would have held a fall as the seams were very shallow. Aug 12, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
I remember this as a fun climb. I didn't place anything besides clipping the bolts, but I do not recommend this for 5.7 leaders! The runouts were on reasonably easy sections. Sep 8, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
And tie knots in your 60m if you want to toprope this or Village Idiot!!! It will NOT reach down to the ledge from which you start Zendance. You will have to swing over to Village Idiot ledge. Sep 8, 2010

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