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Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,864 total, 60/month
Shared By: Michael J Yarros on Sep 2, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

The route starts on a ledge on the right side of the Tilted Tower. It's a crack that angles right, then up. You can belay at the first large ledge. Then follow the crack(s) system up to the large off-width crack at the top. Once your at the next large ledge its up and over the OW crack to the summit. You can belay from the very top of Arch Rock.

You might want to do 3 pitches if communications are a problem. It can be very hard to hear with the river noise, wind etc.

Protection

Route takes from 0.5 up to 4.0 WC sizes. Cracks usually take from 1.5 to 2.0. There are plenty of placement possiblities. There are NO bolts, and only one fixed piece of gear (stopper?) on the second pitch.
D.J. Radcliff
Castle Rock, CO
  5.7
D.J. Radcliff   Castle Rock, CO
  5.7
Climbed this past weekend, fun route and easily protected. One thing I did differently was to set the second belay just under the O/W section near the top. The ledge is just too cool to not sit on for a bit, and you can watch your second through the whole pitch, with good communication. Makes for an extremely short third pitch with no real protection, but good luck falling out of that O/W. May 30, 2011
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7
As usual I'm struggling to understand US grades. Start of this climb was worth 5.9+ but after that the climb is at most 5.7, though enjoyable - "a good mountaineering route". UK grade would be Hard Severe with an optional 5b start. Oct 27, 2009
Great climb! I would agree that the direct start is a 5.9-5.9+, and the rest is 5.8. It is easily protectable for most of it but with run-outs at the top. I used C4 cams from 0.4-2, but in places to 4, and can be done with a rack of nuts and hexes with only a few mid-sized cams. Sep 5, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Climbed today with my wife. A great moderate route that protects well. The "direct" start (see photo) is very tough -- 5.9+ or harder. The regular start (fifteen feet left) is easy (5.6?). Both take you to a small ledge about fifteen feet off the ground. From there the route follows an obvious crack which stops just below the first belay ledge. Plenty of rests along the way. You will need to do about 8 feet of face climbing (5.7+) to get up on top of the first belay ledge which is wide and comfortable.

The second pitch follows a crack up until it reaches a 15 foot chimney at the top of Arch Rock. The chimney can't be protected, but it goes back pretty deep and would be hard to fall out of. Near the top of the chimney, you will move left for about six feet of easy face climbing (5.6) that also cannot be protected, but there's lots of options for feet and hands. That tops out on a wide ledge which I recommend for the second belay station -- lots of options for a trad anchor. The actual summit is back on the ledge and up about six feet through a "hole" in the rock, but if you belayed from there the communication with your second would be very difficult.

This is a fun route on great rock that actually offers lots of opportunity for protection where I think it mattered the most. I used BD cams in the 0.75 to 4 range, with doubles recommended from 1 to 3. Aug 22, 2009
Tom Johnson
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
 
Tom Johnson   Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
 
There is another variation on the first pitch that follows a left facing dihedral about 30 ft right of the usual hand crack. It's super fun, although quite short. Protects well and probably goes at easy 5.7. Also, I didn't see the fixed nut referred to in the description. Be ready for a bit of squeeze chimney near the top of the second pitch, or else duck out left onto slab. Great route. Sep 16, 2008
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
I believe he's referring the "variant" when he says .8+/9, not the original line. Jun 25, 2007
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
The 5.8 leader shouldn't be put off by the 5.8+/5.9 start that Mark mentions. I found it surprisingly easy to protect before making the hard moves. Perhaps warm up on another route first. Jun 19, 2007
Buff Johnson
  5.8
Buff Johnson  
  5.8
Good moderate natural line on solid rock.

You can really push yourself right off the deck and try a hard (but protectable with large nuts) flaring variant crack that is more .8+/.9. Overall, a nice 5.8 climb; we did in 2 pitches and a walk-off, the first pitch was really fun. The finish OW was not that difficult. Jan 20, 2006