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Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: [Leonard Coyne, 1977]
Page Views: 3,012 total · 16/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This route is directly above the anchors on Hollow Flake. [Leonard Coyne in 1977. He led it with only a couple bolts and got bits of gear in the cracks. Very bold lead, considering it now sports 10 bolts. It's almost 120 feet from the belay on top of Hollow Flake to the anchors so plan on rappelling with 2 ropes or use a 70-meter cord. A third pitch, a short 5.9ish lead, goes over the headwall above past a bolt and then works up cracks to the summit.] From the top of hollow flake, clip the first bolt about 8 feet up. Continue up over a small overhang (protects well with a #3 TCU under it and another bolt on top) past 10 more bolts and a number of horizontal "ribs" to the anchors. Probably a little over-protected, some of the bolts are less than 6-8 feet apart. There is a bit of a runout on easy rock between the last bolt and the anchors. From the anchors, either rap back to the top of hollow flake with one rope, or continue to the top past a single bolt on the headwall above. Fun climb.

Protection

12-13 draws, #3 TCU, and something for the anchor.

Photos

Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
This pitch is nice and sustained at the grade, with a great sense of exposure (especially if the wind is blowing). It doesn't look like a 50m rope would be long enough for the rappel back down to the top of Hollow Flake. May 17, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.8
Larry Shaw  
  5.8
Can you bust over the roof at the top? Difficulty? May 29, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.8
Larry Shaw  
  5.8
Climbed this one the other day. fun moves over the roof, a little over bolted in spots 12 bolts maybe? fun way to finish hollow flake. Sep 2, 2004
Guys,

This is NOT the sprout route. This route is called Persistence. I think Fred Dearborn or maybe Shmauser put it up in the 80's It originally had only the 2nd bolt. The Sprout Route, climbs the features angling up and left of persistence after turning the roof, and is still very serious.

Anyone know about the 5.9 route right of persistence? It's good but I dont know the name.

Todd Jul 30, 2005
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.9+
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.9+
The difficulty of Persistence is at least 5.9. The over bolting makes it a reasonably sane lead for someone just breaking above 5.8.

Regarding the "5.9-ish" 3rd pitch in the description of Persistence: The initial moves past the single bolt are way harder than 5.9. And once at a good stance about 12 feet higher, there remains a second series of hard-ish moves to get established at the awaiting hand-sized crack; suitable pro in 1/8" to 1/3" short parallel cracks will keep one off the deck for the second series of moves. Jul 14, 2008
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Fun route. Well protected for the beginning 5.8 leader. Bolt is perfectly placed to go over the small roof at the start. Rapped from the anchors at the top of the 1st pitch. Well worth climbing this route after Hollow Flake! Jun 26, 2010
Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
 
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
 
The third pitch is burly and sketchy, definitely rated "R" and no way it's 5.9...for some reason I was carrying two Trango Ballnuts and was able to get decent placements at the second crux (after the bolt crux and below the nice hand jams). There was no other gear to be found until the bomber jams above. Oct 6, 2011
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.9+
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.9+
Felt harder than Canine Rescue (10a, Turret Dome) to me. I thought it was a 5.9 move over the roof and then 10a moving up to clip 3rd bolt. Good footwork is key. Aug 25, 2012
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
5.10d
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
5.10d
As a few others have said, the final pitch to the summit is much harder than 5.9 (closer to a hard 5.11 or 5.12).

Edit: I lead Pride of Sweden yesterday (and also Persistence for the 7th or 8th time), and both my partner and I though that Persistence was a little harder climb. If Pride of Sweden is 5.10b/c, then possibly a rating of 5.10d would be warranted for Persistence? Certainly 5.8 is way off the mark by modern standards. Jun 11, 2016

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