Type: Trad, TR, 125 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell, 1980
Page Views: 1,457 total · 18/month
Shared By: David Reuille on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

The first pitch is bolted. **Use 2 ropes to lower or rappel. Pitch 2 & 3 are both trad and summit the rock.

Location

This is the second bolted route right of The Staircase. Start just right of a pine tree.

Protection

The 1st pitch has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 70 meter is NOT adequate for lower or rappel. A double rope rappel is needed. The 2nd and 3rd pitches require a set of stoppers and cams to 3 inches.

Photos

The left-hand route is called "Kansas Honey" and was first climbed by Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell in 1980. Originally done as a 3-pitch route to the top of Arch Rock, it had minimal protection for many years. Now the first pitch is well-protected with added bolts. The other routes were put up in the 1980s but I can't recall the route names or who the climbers were... Apr 28, 2003
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Pretty fun slab actually. It surprised me a bit. It seems like the bolts kinda wander, but don't worry, they lead you in the right direction. You can use a #2 if you'd like at the last left-facing bulge at the top. Definitely a 70m for rap. Nov 9, 2013
Karl R. Kiser
  5.9-
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.9-
This is another route with a high first bolt and a less than stellar landing. It is a better stick clip. Aug 9, 2015
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
A 70m ROPE IS NOT ADEQUATE TO LOWER ON THIS ROUTE!

Several years ago I was preparing to climb Staircase when I heard a loud thump. A woman lowered off the end of the rope. Fortunately, she was not seriously hurt. They said they were using a 70m rope.

On a recent trip, a member of our party lead the route with what she said was a 70m rope. They did not have a knot in the end of the rope, so I made sure they tied one! Sure enough, when she lowered she was still about 8 feet from the top of a flake just right of the bolt line. She was about 15 feet from the ground where the route begins.

So be sure to tie a knot in the end of the rope on this one!

Don't why this discrepancy with the rope length - just be aware that this is a really long route! Jul 15, 2018