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Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Schmausser, 1996
Page Views: 3,364 total · 18/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This is the sport climb on the arete/face to the right of Hollow Flake that Roger Wilkerson mentioned. Climb the right side of the pillar just to the right of the Hollow Flake start. The cracks at the top protect well with small gear. Swing onto the face, and follow the line of four bolts to the top. Belay/rap from the anchors above Hollow Flake. The crux is just before the fourth bolt where the face thins. It has good friction.

Protection

Four bolts, small gear protects the start.
Larry Shaw
  5.10c
Larry Shaw  
  5.10c
Wow, what a cool route...this is the first pitch of the Sprout Route. Starts off with a .7 move then a .8 then .9 then is in the .10 range through most of the top...fun moves right on the arete with a little exposure. May 29, 2004
This is not the first pitch of The Sprout Route. I don't know what the name is or who did it. Anyone want to claim it? The first pitch of The Sprout is just to the right and clings past 2 bolts then up thin cracks to the Hollow Flake Ledge. Anyway, this arete route is fun and devious. The 4th bolt is hard to clip though and right in the middle of the route crux... Jun 7, 2005
Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Stew,

That's my work on the arete, nearly 10 years ago now...damn, I'm getting to be almost as old as you...LOL!

I rated it 5.11-, but I was on the lead toting a Bosch...so it always seems harder...go figure. I agree with the posters, probaby hard 5.10. Name of the route is Zamboni Man. 5.10c.

Cheers,

Bill May 14, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Great route! Don't know if it's been retro'd, but there are 5 bolts. I'd say the crux was just below (still out of reach) the 4th bolt; secondary crux between the 4th and 5th bolts.

Edit 9/27/10: now that I've led this all the way through, I believe there is also a secondary crux at the second bolt; quite sequential and balancy. Aug 12, 2010
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.11a
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.11a
Really nice climb. I felt the first crux was around 10b and the last move before clipping the 5th bolt was awfully thin to be 5.10. But maybe I missed a hidden hold on the arete side pull. Either way this is a really nice slab climb. Aug 30, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
5.10+
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
5.10+
I agree with the two cruxes. I remember at the second bolt my partner saying this must be the business and then he got near the 4th and said, nope this is the business.

Has anyone else swung left after the 4th bolt onto the face and then came back up with the heel hook to get the 5th? It seemed to work well for us and is much easier than it looked. Great route and fun wierd exposure to the left. Oct 25, 2010
Paul Kaltenthaler
Colorado Springs
 
Paul Kaltenthaler   Colorado Springs
 
Bill, good job toting a Bosch up it. I've gawked at people on this for 10 yrs and finally led it on my 43 Bday last summer and was pretty damn proud of it. I thought it was spot on .11-, so let's let an aging rock rat have his pie, ok? Jan 16, 2012
cslice
Longmont, CO
 
cslice   Longmont, CO
 
Yikes, pretty spicy climb. Might want to get your ice skates out. Maybe more like 11a/b? Jul 5, 2013

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