Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Stewart Green, Josh Morris, 1994.
Page Views: 1,579 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


Start on the right side of the ledge that sits above a short chimney. Climb past five bolts while moving to the left occasionally to locate the next one. The bolts are quite spacious, but for a solid leader, it should not require extra gear.

If you have any doubts, bring an extra light rack of trad gear since a fall could be upwards of 35' or so.


5 bolts in about 130' so bring some small camming gear and stoppers too. It's not that runout with just the bolts though.


Pitch 2 goes over the roof at 5.7, and you can put in some medium to large cams below it. However, that's it, and if you fall once on that roof -- where there is no pro -- you will be taking a long, potentially painful fall. The walk off is supereasy.

Jul 29, 2002
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
The crux is between the second and third can plug a medium cam 1"? there if you like. the runout sections are on 5.6 or easier climbing. May 29, 2004
Casey Flynn
Boulder, CO
Casey Flynn   Boulder, CO
Directly above Village Idiot there is a short, right leaning fist to OW crack that is quite strenuous. Anybody know what this is rated? May 27, 2008
Casey, I believe that's Staircase Direct, it's in the Falcon guidebook, it's an 8.

Also, thought this climb was much easier than 5.9, more like 5.8.

I think this climb could be done on natural pro. The bolt placements are all next to cracks? If I do the climb on natural pro, will the FA let me chop the bolts? Jun 21, 2009
The crack above is 5.8. A second pitch to the summit. There's a bolt somewhere up there too. As far as Village Idiot, you can fiddle in some small nuts. Feel free to do that. No bolt chopping however! Jun 24, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Seemed hard for the grade but I may have missed the easiest line. Hardest moves were near to bolts but I had to resort to Mr. Micawber's POV that "something will turn up" in between. Tried to avoid the strong gravitational pull rightwards where the climbing looks easier.... Oct 27, 2009

More About Village Idiot