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Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,938 total, 30/month
Shared By: Rog on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Follow directions to the main rock & hike up the short, steep obvious trail. It is maybe 75' to the right of The Staircase. This route is very obvious - sorry I'm not more specific (look at attached picture). This is a good climb to do while waiting for folks to clear off The Staircase.

It is one pitch (80' or so) with a 2 bolt anchor / rap station. The start is a bit awkward, and then a combo of lieback, stemming, and face moves brings you to the top. There are not as many finger / hand jams as you'd think.

It is very fun and a bit thoughtful for the grade - I plugged way more gear than I had anticipated.

There is a harder sport climb on the face of this 'hollow flake' that can easily be TR'd from the anchors....

Protection

Small - medium gear? I've got a bad memory.
cyclestupor
Woodland Park, Colorado
 
cyclestupor   Woodland Park, Colorado
 
A really fun route. Lots of options. You can climb the crack, climb the flake/s, climb the face, lie-back, Jam, crimp, flounder... whatever floats your boat.

On a side-note, the climb on the arete to the right is Zamboni Man (5.10c/d), NOT Sprout Route as someone suggested. It is also super fun. Aug 31, 2015
2-wheel Schollett
Colorado Springs, CO
 
2-wheel Schollett   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I used C4s from 1 to 3, a small nut or two, and a medium tricam. The crux is near the top, of the crack. The last few moves are on large blocks, pretty easy. One of those blocks felt a little wobbly, so be careful.
This route was a great way to re-introduce a friend of mine--who frequents rock gyms--to outdoor climbing. Sep 3, 2011
Mario Chiarolanzio
  5.7 PG13
Mario Chiarolanzio  
  5.7 PG13
My first all trad route. It was pretty east placement for me after I got passed the start. I was a little nervous being a little run out but has big hold and good hand jams. Aug 16, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Climbed this route today with my wife. Did the OW direct start as a layback. This is a fantastic climb and would be worth 4 stars if only it were longer! Jun 26, 2010
Joey Jimenez
Colorado Springs
Joey Jimenez   Colorado Springs
Either the (5.3 flake) or the direct (5.6+ OW) make for a fun start. I think we'd all agree that the dihedral is where the real fun begins. Great route, simple, fun, enjoy. Don't pull your rope without giving the face route a go on TR. As stated, to the ledge is P1 (10c) of the Sprout Route 11b. For some added fun, stay off the arete all the way to the belay ledge and I'd give the pitch an honest .11+ (IMO). Straight friction and mini crimps, with a nice mantle about half-way up. Will be back for the lead soon. Sep 8, 2008
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
This crack is superior to Mobey Grape. It's less slabby, sharper, and doesn't have any grass growing in it. May 22, 2007
Here's another contrived variant to try, come in from left to right on those thin seams, small nuts & RPs. There's a couple of key finger locks. Nov 9, 2006
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
We did the 2nd pitch that's right off the belay ledge of Hollow Flake.
The pitch is at least 5.10c. Very nice pitch, 8-10 bolts, plus 2 for the anchors (can't remember). Very deceiving route, looks much easier from the belay ledge. But all the bolts are in the right spots. Sep 10, 2006
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Great route, I roped-soloed this today. It takes more stoppers than cams. I used #4-#l3 in stoppers, cams I used from blue alien to #3 in wild country sizes. This is a great route for learning to lead. As is the Stair-case. There are excellent stances for placing gear. Hexes are also good pieces to have. It get's a little thin in the upper part of the climb. But, it's mostly easy climbing. Lot's of fun!! Jun 23, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.6
Larry Shaw  
  5.6
The 5.6 hollow flake starts to the left on the right angling flake 5.3, then enters the dihedral at it's half way point. The two direct starts are 5.7 and much funner. The bolted route on the arete is the first pitch to the Sprout route 5.11b. This is a very fun route with great moves. I think the first pitch is around .10c and the harder moves are at the top. You can also go right near the end and tackle the double cracks .10a?? They are really fun. May 29, 2004
Kris Carter
  5.7+
Kris Carter  
  5.7+
Great climb - maybe its just that I'm a wuss, but this sure seemed like 5.7 or possibly more to me. About 3/4 of the way up there is a nut that didn't want to come home with us - it is hard to see, but the #@#%$ thing is in there a few inches into the crack. Maybe I just did the "direct" start, but at more than one place the route had me doing some "contemplating". Very worth doing if you are in 11mile. Mar 25, 2004
Anyone have more information on the face climb that ascends the arete right of the flake? Name? Grade? Any good? Partner and I would like to climb it - it is a steep, attention-getting line on a rock that doesn't abound in steep lines. How is the next pitch that pulls up and over the roof from the top of hollow flake? Nov 5, 2003
IMHO a 3 star route. A superb, clean, flake-crack and dihedral that is mostly face climbing. Grab a handfull of stoppers and prepare to have fun. Only one little move near the top of the dihedral prompts some contemplation. Starting off the angling flake to the left is much easier than the direct starts mentioned above but every bit as good. Sep 15, 2003
The direct start to this is killer! Unprotected 5.7 lieback/undercling left, or 5.7 OW to the right! Both take good gear at the top of the OW. Use a long draw or sling to go left into the corner. Once in the corner, that's where the fun begins. Oct 22, 2002
Gear to 2". Definitely a fun little dihedral, with mostly easy face moves. Jan 23, 2002