Type: Trad
FA: ?Brian Teale and Dan Morrison,~1974? ?Larry C. Schubarth & Gregg Stevens, 1977?
Page Views: 3,250 total · 15/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


To find this route, hike up to the hollow flake route on arch rock. From here, look right approximately 40 feet to the large chimney/corner formed by an enormous flake leaning against the wall. This is captain fist.

Either slab or use a slab/chimney combination to pull up into the wide roof/slot (crux). Place your big piece here (#3 or #4 Camalot), and pull left out of the slot and into the corner proper. From here, climb up the corner on excellent jams and ledges. Great rest stances to place pro. About 60 feet up is a fixed anchor to rap from.


Bring gear up to #3 Camalot, a #4 Camalot might be handy for the bottom.


I first did this thinkingi it was hollow flake! I really like a #11 HEX to get youthrough the opening moves. getting to the HEX is different than getting to the corner! Oct 22, 2002
This is a pretty fun route, especially for new 5.8 leaders. Hexes work fine too! The first placement is an awsome 3.5 friend. Bring a big sling to backup the goofy anchor at the top. Apr 22, 2003
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
Great route! The crux is getting past the thin slab at the start and placing your fist piece in the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, there are plenty of good stances along the route to place additional pro. The goofy anchor at the top is a steel cable wrapped around a block with rap rings backed up with a ratty sling. It looked solid, and we made it to the ground in one piece... Jul 6, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Stood on the small boulder to place a #4 Camalot for the first piece. The traverse left was the crux. Once you are established in the dihedral the climbing is straightforward and fun. Jun 12, 2004
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
Moving from the tricky slab, to the fist crack, to the hand crack is classic. The rest of the route is fun too. Jun 16, 2004
Anchor on top is now ratty cable w/ some rusty chains looped through it. It had some duct tape stuck to it for confidence builder. Made it to bottom ok. Short climb. Jun 27, 2005
Matt Chan
Matt Chan   Denver
After watching a guy blow the inital moves on the slab before getting any gear (hope your ankle is okay), I started on the slab with small crack system and made my way right to the main dihedral. Sure its easier, but my ankles feel fine. Take a look at the first picture below and you'll see what I'm talking about. Aug 23, 2005
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
Matt, then you miss out on doing the "Captain Fist" move! Aug 23, 2005
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
Good technical fist problem, perfect fist jams. Protection was placed before committing, so I don't see how the groundfall potential could deter a [competent] 5.8 climber from trying this route. There are also some good moves up the line to the anchor. I thought this was quite fun & would climb it again. Jan 20, 2006
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
I agree with Mark. The slab start shouldn't deter the competent 5.8 leader. Moves to get 1st pro are perhaps as much as 5.7. One can place pro up high in the chimney to the climber's right to keep from tumbling down left if one does take a fall. Of course, you will still deck and will want to remove the chimney piece before finishing the pitch. Jun 19, 2007
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
With my reach, I was able to stand deep in the overhang and get a #4 set in the bottom of the crack before launching onto the slab. Once that piece was set, it was actually quite fun traversing out of the overhang and onto the vertical section. Jun 29, 2007
Nice variation, climb as described about half way up the corner, and cut right then up following the hand to fist to offwidth crack. Short (20ft) but very fun if you like crack and is a bit harder than the start. Can be protected with a 1 or 2, a 3 further up, and if you like more pro a 4 by the little chalkstone (C4s). Top out and trav. a foot ledge to the left 5 feet to the normal cable anchor, or continue up the leaning tower to the bolted anchor on the top. Jul 16, 2007
Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado
Larry C. Schubarth   colorado springs, colorado
The original name of this route is MIGHTY JOE YOUNG put up by Gregg Stevens and I in 1977. Apr 21, 2008
This route was climbed before 1977. I believe Brian Teale and Dan Morrison did in about 1974... May 21, 2008
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Very like Yorkshire gritstone! VS 5a. Oct 27, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
A fairly tough start for a 5.8 getting around that roof corner -- but it protects great with a #4 Camalot. Once you're past that, it's a lot of fun doing a lieback up the rest of the dihedral. Aug 13, 2011