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Areas in Elevenmile Canyon

393 Off The Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Arch Rock 19 / 12 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Baboon Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Backstreet Wall 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Camp Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Corridor Crags 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cove Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevenmile Dome 7 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Fortress, Lower 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Heaven's Gate 0 / 29 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Icebox, The 3 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Kentucky Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Knome Dome aka Water Dome 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Merry Pranksters' Crag 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Messenger Wall 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Mount Meridith 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Murray Boulders (River Boulders) 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Owsley Bear Rock 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pine Cone Dome 17 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
River Wall 8 / 8 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Scoop Wall 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sentinel, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Shangri-La 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Spillway/Camp 2, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Sports Crag 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Spray Wall 0 / 13 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Springer Gulch Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Teale Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Turret Dome 10 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Water Sculpt Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 8,193 ft
GPS: 38.934, -105.408 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The South Platte River flows from Elevenmile Reservoir at an elevation of about 8500 feet into the canyon, just one hour west of Colorado Springs. The granite domes are home to large number of moderate trad routes and more recently some quite moderate sport routes on the many low-angle domes. The canyon also hosts many "hardman" routes (both sport and trad) in the 5.11-5.12 range. Interestingly, there are not many routes with grades in the 5.8-10 range, but any climber will be satisfied by the fine quality routes. Update: in the Green (2010) and Schmitt (2013) guidebooks, many new routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range have appeared. Several of these routes have high first bolts with poor landings, a stick clip and additional protection is advised.

Weather will be colder than most Front Range areas due to the higher elevation so the season is shorter, but it's a fine place for summer climbing on the shady side of a crag.

Bring a standard rack up to #4 Friend for trad routes. A 50m rope should suffice unless specifically mentioned otherwise.

Route development started in the '60s but the '70s marked the era of the many moderate classics, while the '80s brought about many new difficult lines of sport and trad. Major developers included: Richard Aschert, Dale Goddard, Mark Milligan, Mark Rolofson, Neil Cannon, and Bob D'Antonio (whose guidebook "Mueller St. Park/Elevenmile Canyon" from the Chockstone Press provides more historical information).

Popular rocks include: 11 Mile Dome, which hosts many moderate trad and sport lines from 5.4-5.10. Don't miss "South Face Direct" (5.10c sp), a fine face route. "The Overleaf" is a nice long 5.8 trad route to the summit of the dome.

Also, check out Arch Rock, Turret Dome, Pine Cone Dome, for moderate climbing. The hardperson should check out Sports Crag, Indulgence Crag, and Cove Rock.
Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Getting There

From Colorado Springs (I-25) head west on US-24 through Manitou Springs, past Woodland Park, Divide, and on to Lake George. Look for a blue road sign to County Road 96 and head south for a mile to the canyon entrance. Mileage for rocks starts at this turnoff.

Pay a $7 (up in 2017) day-use fee (State Park passes are NOT valid), and drive a few miles to the first major rock formations.

Per Bogs Bogdanovich: as of 2014, the entrance fee is now $6 for a day pass. If you're not camping in the canyon, you can get a weekend pass for $12, $6 for the initial fee then +$3 for each additional day.

Click here for the latest fees.

Resources

If camping at Eleven Mile Canyon, plan to arrive early! If you can't find a site go to Wagon Tongue Gulch & beyond, for no fee camping on forest land. Bring some mosquito spray.

Per Karl Kiser: camping is better reserved during the prime summer months. Coming early will not guarantee a spot. These sites now cost $16 per night.

244 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elevenmile Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Staircase
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schooldaze
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Counter Strike
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hollow Flake
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guide's Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jolly Jugular
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Grape
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof By-Pass
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punks and Old Men
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Overleaf
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face Value
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Wyoming
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hemisphere
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zamboni Man
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Randy Speaks Farsi
Sport
The Staircase Arch Rock 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Schooldaze Turret Dome 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Counter Strike Elevenmile Dome 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Hollow Flake Arch Rock 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Guide's Route Turret Dome 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jolly Jugular Pine Cone Dome 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Moby Grape Elevenmile Dome 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Roof By-Pass Pine Cone Dome 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Punks and Old Men Pine Cone Dome 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Overleaf Elevenmile Dome 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Face Value Elevenmile Dome 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Miss Wyoming Elevenmile Dome 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hemisphere Icebox 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Zamboni Man Arch Rock 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Randy Speaks Farsi Spray Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Elevenmile Canyon »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Looking for red 5.10 Moccasyms size 9 left at the base of Counter Strike on Eleven Mile Dome on Sunday 29 October. They were found by someone that day after we left in the afternoon. Help a climber out. Nov 6, 2017
Looks like it's now $7 for the day use fee:

fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsin… May 5, 2017
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
There are 4 campgrounds in the canyon. Can anyone comment on which are the best for 1. convenience to 11 Mile Dome, Arch Rock, Pine Conem, and Turret?
2. Shade for our non-climbing wives? 3. privacy? Doug Redosh Aug 1, 2016
My partner and I got stuck after dark on a route in Elevenmile Canyon. When we went to retrieve our packs, since it was dark, we accidentally left behind a sling of a few pieces of trad gear that we hadn't used on the route. Unfortunately, since this was our last stop on our Colorado trip, we didn't realize our mistake until we arrived back home to Texas and sorted our gear. If anyone has picked these up, please contact me. I'll identify the gear and where it was left and pay for shipping plus a reward if anyone is so kind to return my gear to me! Also, if anyone lives nearby or has plans to visit Elevenmile Canyon in the near future and is willing to check for my gear, I would be super grateful and also the previous reward/pay for shipping applies...contact me for location. Thanks! Sep 27, 2015
Garrido  
I just called the Canyon and they are open.
Here's the number just in case: 1-719-748-3619. Jul 23, 2015
Check out Darryl's shout out to Eleven-mile canyon, as well as a magnitude of other interesting articles and videos of climbing! Eleven mile is one of the best summer areas, so take a look!

climbingaction.com/The-Best… Jul 25, 2011
Devin Quince
Longmont
Devin Quince   Longmont
Does anyone know if you can still drive up FS 393 from the canyon to camp? It looks like you can, but I am looking for first hand knowledge.
Thanks Jun 28, 2011
Attention all Elevenmile Climbers! The new Elevenmile guidebook is done! It will be available on Amazon.com in about six weeks for $20.00, or you can contact me and I will get you a copy. I am currently waiting on a shipment that will be here in about two weeks, so P.M. then and I'll hook you up!

May 28, 2011
Elevenmile Dome, Arch Rock, & Pine Cone have good slab climbing sport and fun trad with great protection opportunities. I list these three as it's what I usually hit on a weekender of moderates. Turret Dome and others have gems as well. It's difficult to actually go wrong in this canyon.

A 70m is good to have, though not everything needs this. Personal favorite trad is Roof Bypass on Pine Cone, good continuous technical hands; Jolly Jugular is fun, Staircase is also; Moby Grape, Arch Rock Route, etc etc etc (take a #5 on the Overleaf, just my opinion though).

I think Stewart's new Colorado book is really good to have also. Aug 30, 2010
I'm planning a trip to Elevenmile and don't have a guidebook. Can someone suggest some good routes in the 5.8-5.9 range (sport) or 5.6-5.8 range (trad)? Aug 29, 2010
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Elevenmile Canyon is no longer listed on Reserve America. Any beta on how one might now make camping reservations there? Jun 29, 2010
Olivia
Colorado Springs
Olivia   Colorado Springs
I am new to Colorado and I am probably going to be in 11 mile canyon Thur or Fri. I was wondering if there was any bouldering there, also if anyone would be interested in a climbing partner. Sep 22, 2008
JK1
Lakewood, CO
JK1   Lakewood, CO
I will be in the Elevenmile Canyon area on July 29th and 30th. I would love to do some routes with someone. I lead up to 5.9 bolted and dabbling in the 5.7 trad lead. I am a safe and competent belayer and climber. The staircase is a route I would love to do as it has been a couple of years since I last did this route. Thank you for the new guidebook as this is one of my favorite areas to climb and have noticed the rapid growth of new routes. Jul 25, 2008
Finally...after four years of collecting info on new routes and putting up lots of new routes, Bob D'Antonio and I will be publishing a new guidebook to Elevenmile Canyon. New routes. New cliffs. New fun. Hopefully it will be ready for sale by early September. I'll keep everyone who has been waiting for this new book aware of the publication date as it gets closer! Jul 15, 2008
The anchors have got to be for rap practice. I'd pay good money to see someone go and free that wall, no freakin' way.

Although, there looks to be a dihedral slot more toward the camping area that looked doable ending in an OW; but I always seemed to be drunk looking at it during the sunset, and I just decided: beer/climb? beer/climb?? beer/climb??? ah - beer.

You know there also looked to be a fair sized slab on the back end side that might be cool; but then again, I was always drinking when I walk up there. Oct 17, 2006
Mike Ben
silverthorne/denver
Mike Ben   silverthorne/denver
Anyone know anything about a bunch of anchors on top of the rock ridge 1-2 miles up Wagon Tongue Road? I was scrambling around back there and found them. They weren't there a few years ago. There were about five sets, and one had another bolt below but looked useless. They were way back from the edge and above blank overhanging walls above the cave in the middle. My guess is that they are either for teaching people to rappel or hard ass toprope climbs (probably not). Oct 17, 2006
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Any news on a new guidebook for Eleven Mile Canyon? Sep 17, 2006
Is there a tentative date for release of the new guide book? I'm interested in purchasing a copy. Jul 28, 2005
Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
Jim Gloeckler   Denver, Colo.
Anyone know what the climbs are about 3 miles in right next to the river are called or rated? We did the two on the left, and both seemed about 5.7 or something like that. I think there are 2 more just to the right, but I saw no anchors on these. They look to be about 5.8, any info?? Jun 5, 2005
If you go to 11 mile I would definitely recomend a 60 or 70 meter rope if you plan to do either 11mile Dome or Turret Dome. Also, if you are using the book "Classic Rock Climbs: Mueller State Park and Elevenmile Canyon" take the rating with a grain of salt.

Finally, if you are looking for climbs in the 5.8-5.10 range, there are some great sport routes on 11mile Dome and Arch Rock. May 30, 2003
Climbed in Elevenmile for the first time this weekend. Good quality moderates abound. Great place to take a novice or beginning leader. The camping is very limited and quickly fills up with fisherman on the weekend. A mid week trip would be great. The fishing is world class as well. May 19, 2003
Warning! Tick Season is here. There has been at least one case of Lyme disease reported this spring from Elevenmile Canyon ( a dog ). My daughter who is 2 1/2 got a bit by a tick a few weeks ago. I am pretty sure she picked it up the day we climbed in the Canyon. Inspect yourself, kids, dogs etc. If you get one, Web MD has some good info on how to remove them and how to identify which type of tick it is. Be Careful.Scott Dooley Apr 12, 2003
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Climbed in Elevenmile Canyon yesterday for the first time. It's a great area with a wealth of good climbing and only an easy two hours from Denver. Conditions are good in the sun, especially south-facing and west-facing aspects. Some of the cracks and dihedrals have snow and ice in them, so it's best to give them another week or so. Bring a pad and a rope bag for the bottom of the routes to keep your shoes and gear clean. Mar 16, 2003
Looking for any information on new route development in Elevenmile Canyon. I've noticed and climbed some bolted routes near Pine Cone Dome that I can't find any information about. Also, looking for a "long-time local" partner for Colorado Springs areas. Nov 29, 2002
Turret dome is a phenomenal rock. The "Guide's Route" follows an obvious wide crack system up the south face and is a great moderate trad route. The first 2 pitches are real clean with plenty of good placement opportunities. Pitch 3 (or sometimes pitches 3 and 4, depending on how much rope drag you can deal with) is where the crack system runs out and the route to the summit goes either over or beteen a row of funky boulders. I don't really know what the "actual" route is on this pitch, but it doesn't really matter. Pick a line that's protectable and do it. The only downer for this rock is the downclimb off the back - 5.4 ish in places; don't take the ol' rock shoes off at the top. For the sport-minded, to the left (west-ish) of the start of Guides are 4 excellent bolted lines in the 5.7-5.9 category. The approach from Guides on around is a bit of a scramble, but totally worth the effort as these routes are each solid and one of the best places I know to hone your slab technique. Mar 6, 2002
For easy moderate trad stuff, go onto turret dome just about anywhere and have fun. The Staircase (5.5) on Arch Rock is listed everywhere as a classic, and I heartedly agree - numerous, "bomber" nut placements throughout the climb. Nov 10, 2001

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