|GPS:||38.934, -105.408 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Weather will be colder than most Front Range areas due to the higher elevation so the season is shorter, but it's a fine place for summer climbing on the shady side of a crag.
Bring a standard rack up to #4 Friend for trad routes. A 50m rope should suffice unless specifically mentioned otherwise.
Route development started in the '60s but the '70s marked the era of the many moderate classics, while the '80s brought about many new difficult lines of sport and trad. Major developers included: Richard Aschert, Dale Goddard, Mark Milligan, Mark Rolofson, Neil Cannon, and Bob D'Antonio (whose guidebook "Mueller St. Park/Elevenmile Canyon" from the Chockstone Press provides more historical information).
Popular rocks include: 11 Mile Dome, which hosts many moderate trad and sport lines from 5.4-5.10. Don't miss "South Face Direct" (5.10c sp), a fine face route. "The Overleaf" is a nice long 5.8 trad route to the summit of the dome.
Also, check out Arch Rock, Turret Dome, Pine Cone Dome, for moderate climbing. The hardperson should check out Sports Crag, Indulgence Crag, and Cove Rock.
Pay a $7 (up in 2017) day-use fee (State Park passes are NOT valid), and drive a few miles to the first major rock formations.
Per Bogs Bogdanovich: as of 2014, the entrance fee is now $6 for a day pass. If you're not camping in the canyon, you can get a weekend pass for $12, $6 for the initial fee then +$3 for each additional day.
Click here for the latest fees.
Per Karl R. Kiser: camping is better reserved during the prime summer months. Coming early will not guarantee a spot. These sites now cost $16 per night.
Classic Climbing Routes at Elevenmile Canyon
Days w Precip