Elevation: 8,193 ft
GPS: 38.934, -105.408 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 346,141 total · 1,578/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001 with improvements by Bogs Bogdanovich and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

The South Platte River flows from Elevenmile Reservoir at an elevation of about 8500 feet into the canyon, just one hour west of Colorado Springs. The granite domes are home to large number of moderate trad routes and more recently some quite moderate sport routes on the many low-angle domes. The canyon also hosts many "hardman" routes (both sport and trad) in the 5.11-5.12 range. Interestingly, there are not many routes with grades in the 5.8-10 range, but any climber will be satisfied by the fine quality routes. Update: in the Green (2010) and Schmitt (2013) guidebooks, many new routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range have appeared. Several of these routes have high first bolts with poor landings, a stick clip and additional protection is advised.

Weather will be colder than most Front Range areas due to the higher elevation so the season is shorter, but it's a fine place for summer climbing on the shady side of a crag.

Bring a standard rack up to #4 Friend for trad routes. A 50m rope should suffice unless specifically mentioned otherwise.

Route development started in the '60s but the '70s marked the era of the many moderate classics, while the '80s brought about many new difficult lines of sport and trad. Major developers included: Richard Aschert, Dale Goddard, Mark Milligan, Mark Rolofson, Neil Cannon, and Bob D'Antonio (whose guidebook "Mueller St. Park/Elevenmile Canyon" from the Chockstone Press provides more historical information).

Popular rocks include: 11 Mile Dome, which hosts many moderate trad and sport lines from 5.4-5.10. Don't miss "South Face Direct" (5.10c sp), a fine face route. "The Overleaf" is a nice long 5.8 trad route to the summit of the dome.

Also, check out Arch Rock, Turret Dome, Pine Cone Dome, for moderate climbing. The hardperson should check out Sports Crag, Indulgence Crag, and Cove Rock.

Getting There

From Colorado Springs (I-25) head west on US-24 through Manitou Springs, past Woodland Park, Divide, and on to Lake George. Look for a blue road sign to County Road 96 and head south for a mile to the canyon entrance. Mileage for rocks starts at this turnoff.

Pay a $7 (up in 2017) day-use fee (State Park passes are NOT valid), and drive a few miles to the first major rock formations.

Per Bogs Bogdanovich: as of 2014, the entrance fee is now $6 for a day pass. If you're not camping in the canyon, you can get a weekend pass for $12, $6 for the initial fee then +$3 for each additional day.

Click here for the latest fees.

Resources

If camping at Eleven Mile Canyon, plan to arrive early! If you can't find a site go to Wagon Tongue Gulch & beyond, for no fee camping on forest land. Bring some mosquito spray.

Per Karl R. Kiser: camping is better reserved during the prime summer months. Coming early will not guarantee a spot. These sites now cost $16 per night.

271 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elevenmile Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 186
The Staircase
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 79
Schooldaze
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 72
Counter Strike
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 120
Hollow Flake
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 65
Guide's Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 60
Jolly Jugular
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 138
Moby Grape
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
Roof By-Pass
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Punks and Old Men
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
The Overleaf
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Face Value
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
Miss Wyoming
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 59
Ben Dover
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 53
Hemisphere
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
Brain Freeze
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Staircase Arch Rock
 186
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Schooldaze Turret Dome
 79
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Counter Strike Elevenmile Dome
 72
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Hollow Flake Arch Rock
 120
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Guide's Route Turret Dome
 65
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jolly Jugular Pine Cone Dome
 60
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Moby Grape Elevenmile Dome
 138
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Roof By-Pass Pine Cone Dome
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Punks and Old Men Pine Cone Dome
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Overleaf Elevenmile Dome
 67
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Face Value Elevenmile Dome
 96
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Miss Wyoming Elevenmile Dome
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ben Dover Pine Cone Dome
 59
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Hemisphere Icebox
 53
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Brain Freeze Icebox
 41
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
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