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Elevation: 8,192 ft
GPS: 38.9344, -105.4075
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Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

The South Platte River flows from Elevenmile Reservoir at an elevation of about 8500 feet into the canyon, just one hour west of Colorado Springs. The granite domes are home to large number of moderate trad routes and more recently some quite moderate sport routes on the many low-angle domes. The canyon also hosts many "hardman" routes (both sport and trad) in the 5.11-5.12 range. Interestingly, there are not many routes with grades in the 5.8-10 range, but any climber will be satisfied by the fine quality routes. Update: in the Green (2010) and Schmitt (2013) guidebooks, many new routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range have appeared. Several of these routes have high first bolts with poor landings, a stick clip and additional protection is advised.

Weather will be colder than most Front Range areas due to the higher elevation so the season is shorter, but it's a fine place for summer climbing on the shady side of a crag.

Bring a standard rack up to #4 Friend for trad routes. A 50m rope should suffice unless specifically mentioned otherwise.

Route development started in the '60s but the '70s marked the era of the many moderate classics, while the '80s brought about many new difficult lines of sport and trad. Major developers included: Richard Aschert, Dale Goddard, Mark Milligan, Mark Rolofson, Neil Cannon, and Bob D'Antonio (whose guidebook "Mueller St. Park/Elevenmile Canyon" from the Chockstone Press provides more historical information).

Popular rocks include: 11 Mile Dome, which hosts many moderate trad and sport lines from 5.4-5.10. Don't miss "South Face Direct" (5.10c sp), a fine face route. "The Overleaf" is a nice long 5.8 trad route to the summit of the dome.

Also, check out Arch Rock, Turret Dome, Pine Cone Dome, for moderate climbing. The hardperson should check out Sports Crag, Indulgence Crag, and Cove Rock.

Getting There Suggest change

From Colorado Springs (I-25) head west on US-24 through Manitou Springs, past Woodland Park, Divide, and on to Lake George. Look for a blue road sign to County Road 96 and head south for a mile to the canyon entrance. Mileage for rocks starts at this turnoff.

Pay a $9 in cash or check (up in 2023) day-use fee (State Park passes are NOT valid), and drive a few miles to the first major rock formations.

Per Bogs Bogdanovich: as of 2014, the entrance fee is now $6 for a day pass. If you're not camping in the canyon, you can get a weekend pass for $12, $6 for the initial fee then +$3 for each additional day.

Click here;navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&navid=110240000000000&pnavid=null&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&recid=41667&ttype=recarea&pname=Eleven%20Mile%20Canyon%20Recreation%20Area for the latest fees.

Resources

Suggest change
If camping at Eleven Mile Canyon, plan to arrive early! If you can't find a site go to Wagon Tongue Gulch & beyond, for no fee camping on forest land. Bring some mosquito spray.

Per Karl R. Kiser: camping is better reserved during the prime summer months. Coming early will not guarantee a spot. These sites now cost $16 per night.

298 Total Climbs

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Location: Elevenmile Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Elevenmile Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 4
Camp 2 3
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 243
The Staircase
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 88
Hemisphere
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Life on the Run
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 85
Brain Freeze
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
Randy Speaks Farsi
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Alley Cat
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Surfing With The Alien
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Shotgun Piñata
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 37
Rapture
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Spew
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 18
Only Entertainment
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 5
The Iceboxer
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 7
Spray
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Surefire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Camp 2 3 Spillway/Camp 2
 4
V4 6B Boulder
The Staircase Arch Rock
 243
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Hemisphere Icebox
 88
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Life on the Run River Wall
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Brain Freeze Icebox
 85
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Randy Speaks Farsi Spray Wall
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Alley Cat Heaven's Gate > Plebian Wall
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Surfing With The Alien Springer Gulch Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shotgun Piñata Heaven's Gate > Plebian Wall
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Rapture Spray Wall
 37
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Spew Spray Wall
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Only Entertainment Spray Wall
 18
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Iceboxer Icebox
 5
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Spray Spray Wall
 7
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Surefire Spray Wall
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Elevenmile Canyon »

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