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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Elevation: 8,171 ft
GPS: 38.934, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 25,372 total, 129/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

"Turret Dome is the largest rock in Elevenmile and offers an excellent selection of moderate slab routes. The south face has routes up to three pitches long with runouts in some places. The west face is shorter and offers steeper routes." Bob D'Antonio (taken from his Elevenmile Canyon guidebook)...this says it all, "Outstanding multi-pitch rock with fewer [crowds] on it."
Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Getting There

Turret Dome is located 4.3 miles up the canyon on the right. Park at Elevenmile picnic area, cross the bridge and head upstream. You can't miss it. For south and west face routes, approach high over a short slab to avoid a dead end into the creek. This will take you directly into the start of Schooldaze.

From the summit, work north and downclimb to a saddle. Descend east to the picnic area.

Per Jon Banks: the descent from the summit has changed since the last comment. Now you can either rappel to the north from a fixed rope slung around a boulder near the summit or downclimb to the lower ledge (Class 4). These will bring you to a hard to spot boulder that is slung and has rap rings where you can do a short rappel to a lower ledge (if you downclimbed this section, it would be 5th Class). Walk off from here, then walk downhill to the east towards the picnic area.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turret Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Connor McKay
Colorado Springs, CO
Connor McKay   Colorado Springs, CO
We left a cam, nut, and some webbing setup as an anchor just below the summit wall near the top of jaws/schooldaze because we had to rappel off with an injured climber. If anyone finds them and wants to return them, please PM me. There is also a nut stuck in a crack up top if you care to get it out. Sep 3, 2017
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
As of 4/28/17, we couldn't find the slung boulder on the summit, just cut tat. I left tan webbing and a quicklink on a boulder a few feet down in the slot on the north that leads to the lower ledge. Probably won't see it until you're in the slot, just before making downclimb moves. A 70m made it all the way down past the lower ledge and both downclimbing sections.

I lost a red, double length, dyneema sling somewhere between Upper Lip and descent. If you find it and want the karma points, pm me. Happy climbing. Apr 30, 2017
Jon Banks
Denver, CO
Jon Banks   Denver, CO
The descent from the summit has changed since the last comment. Now you can either rappel to the north from a fixed rope slung around a boulder near the summit or downclimb to the lower ledge (Class 4). These will bring you to a hard to spot boulder that is slung and has rap rings where you can do a short rappel to a lower ledge (if you downclimbed this section, it would be 5th Class). Walk off from here, then walk downhill to the east towards the picnic area.

The "large tree" mentioned above is either not there anymore or is dead and probably shouldn't be rapped from. May 30, 2016
SteveF
Fort Collins, CO
SteveF   Fort Collins, CO
There are many different options for the summit pitch of routes on the south face (i.e. Sunshine Slab to Guide's route). Many of these options can meander and lead to serious rope drag problems. Bring long slings or aim for one of the more direct variations such as Upper Lip. Another party I was climbing with today decided to bail after dealing with this problem and getting caught in a storm despite being so close to the summit. See my post on the lost and found forum here. Jun 8, 2015
Kenny P
Woodland Park
Kenny P   Woodland Park
As of August 2013, the route list for a portion of Turret is missing from this site; refer to the "Eleven Miles to Freedom" guidebook by Schmitt which can clear any confusion.

There are many great routes in the mid-5.10 range to make a great day's outing worth the 15min "approach"!

Moderate Routes not to be missed include:
"Smoke Pot... Check Knot", 5.10b**** (sport).
"Fashionably uninvited", 5.10c*** (trad).
"Canine Rescue", 5.10a**** (sport).
"Aid Route", 5.10a** (trad).
"Junior Jules Doinks a Digit", 5.10b*** (sport). Aug 25, 2013
I wanted to add a little clarity about the sport routes along the West Face of Turret Dome. However, there is a chance that this information may just muddy the water since it is only information that I gleamed from reading the other posts. After climbing there this weekend, we found that the directions to some of the older sport routes did not match since newer sport routes have been added. We found a total of 9 sport routes along the West Face and I will list them from Left to Right even though you will likely reach them the opposite way, right to left (sorry).

From L to R
1. Most Toppest: Farthest left and toppest, passed Upper Arch.
The next three routes are under the Upper Arch.
2. Junior Juiles Doinks a Digit.
3. Escondido.
4. Inner Space Arch.
The next routes are below 'The Tunnel', a couple hundred feet below Upper Arch. Specifically there are two that start on the same face just below Guide's Route.
5. Velvet Habel: I think, regardless it is a 50 foot 5.7 with 5-6 bolts. About 20 feet below the start of Guide's Route.
6. Unknown 5.7: Another short route with 5-6 bolts 20 feet below Velvet Habel.
The next three are very close to each other.
7. The Mexicanist.
8. Car Stud.
9. Sloppy Shoes: mixed.
A couple hundred feet below these routes are Schooldaze and Jaws. Aug 15, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Descent Info: As of Sept 2010, there were two good slings on the large pine tree at the back and right side of the dome summit. I added a rappel ring to save wear and tear on the slings. It's a fun, easy rappel down two ledges. Much more enjoyable for me than downclimbing. It gets you down to where it's just an easy hike down the saddle. I hope everyone will leave the slings & rap ring in place for future climbers to descend on. Thanks! Sep 25, 2010
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
If the descent is wet, like it was for us today, you can go to a large tree on the North side of the dome (on your right facing Turret from the road). A 60 meter rope will barely get you all the way down past two ledges. The second ledge has a small tree to rap off if all you have is a 50 meter or you just want to be sure. If you do the full rap, angle the rope to the left to hit a mossy ledge. Going straight down won't work. Sep 11, 2006
They are in the database as [Unknown 1, Unknown 2,] and [Sloppy Shoes]. Jul 28, 2005
Does anybody know anything about the bolted lines on Turret Dome? They looked like they were put up fairly recently. Any info. would be much appreciated. May 28, 2002
"Decend east into picnic area" doesn't quite do justice to the decent from the summit. The downclimb off the back of this rock is kind of a pain (5.4-ish in spots), so when doing a route that summits Turret Dome (such as the Guide's Route), make sure to keep the ol' climbing shoes on for the downclimb and allow appropriate extra time. Mar 6, 2002

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