All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon

Turret Dome Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Turret Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aid Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Anya Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Canine Rescue S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Car Stud S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Moonshine Slab T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b R
	Most Toppest S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Smoke Pot... Check Your Knot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Upper Lip T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

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Elevation:	8,171 ft	2,491 m
GPS:	38.93435, -105.40736 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	60,028 total · 210/month
Shared By:	Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 Details

For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.

From Daniel H Bryant: the 2022 Elevenmile Canyon closures that were extended but do not include climbing areas.

Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.

Description

"Turret Dome is the largest rock in Elevenmile and offers an excellent selection of moderate slab routes. The south face has routes up to three pitches long with runouts in some places. The west face is shorter and offers steeper routes." Bob D'Antonio (taken from his Elevenmile Canyon guidebook)...this says it all, "Outstanding multi-pitch rock with fewer [crowds] on it."

Getting There

Turret Dome is located 4.3 miles up the canyon on the right. Park at Elevenmile picnic area, cross the bridge and head upstream. You can't miss it. For south and west face routes, approach high over a short slab to avoid a dead end into the creek. This will take you directly into the start of Schooldaze.

From the summit, work north and downclimb to a saddle. Descend east to the picnic area.

Per Jon Banks: the descent from the summit has changed since the last comment. Now you can either rappel to the north from a fixed rope slung around a boulder near the summit or downclimb to the lower ledge (Class 4). These will bring you to a hard to spot boulder that is slung and has rap rings where you can do a short rappel to a lower ledge (if you downclimbed this section, it would be 5th Class). Walk off from here, then walk downhill to the east towards the picnic area.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turret Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c 56 ● Sunshine Slab Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 107 ● Schooldaze Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 52 ● Jaws Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 14 ● Fishook Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 81 ● Guide's Route Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● Velvet Habel Trad, Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 47 ● Upper Lip Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Upper Arch Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 14 ● Escorndido Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● Canine Rescue Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 16 ● Junior Jules Doinks a Digit Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 7 ● Smoke Pot... Check Your Knot Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 4 ● Fashionably Uninvited Trad