Elevation: 8,171 ft
GPS: 38.934, -105.407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,646 total · 186/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

"Turret Dome is the largest rock in Elevenmile and offers an excellent selection of moderate slab routes. The south face has routes up to three pitches long with runouts in some places. The west face is shorter and offers steeper routes." Bob D'Antonio (taken from his Elevenmile Canyon guidebook)...this says it all, "Outstanding multi-pitch rock with fewer [crowds] on it."

Getting There

Turret Dome is located 4.3 miles up the canyon on the right. Park at Elevenmile picnic area, cross the bridge and head upstream. You can't miss it. For south and west face routes, approach high over a short slab to avoid a dead end into the creek. This will take you directly into the start of Schooldaze.

From the summit, work north and downclimb to a saddle. Descend east to the picnic area.

Per Jon Banks: the descent from the summit has changed since the last comment. Now you can either rappel to the north from a fixed rope slung around a boulder near the summit or downclimb to the lower ledge (Class 4). These will bring you to a hard to spot boulder that is slung and has rap rings where you can do a short rappel to a lower ledge (if you downclimbed this section, it would be 5th Class). Walk off from here, then walk downhill to the east towards the picnic area.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turret Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 49
Sunshine Slab
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 89
Schooldaze
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 31
Jaws
Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Fishook
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 68
Guide's Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Velvet Habel
Trad, Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 37
Upper Lip
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Upper Arch
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Sloppy Shoes
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Escorndido
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Canine Rescue
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Fashionably Uninvited
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunshine Slab
 49
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad 3 pitches
Schooldaze
 89
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Jaws
 31
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Fishook
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Guide's Route
 68
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Velvet Habel
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Upper Lip
 37
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Upper Arch
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sloppy Shoes
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Escorndido
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Canine Rescue
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Fashionably Uninvited
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
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