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Routes in Turret Dome

Aid Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,038 total · 28/month
Shared By: Rog on May 31, 2001 with updates from Climbnh
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


Follow the main Turret Dome directions. When you're at the base of the slab it is about as obvious as can be. Sprint upwards. Gear is a bother, you have to move to the far right or left side of the slab. I suggest the old fashioned solo.

At the start of the bathtubs (you'll recognize them) move right into the gully & finish. If you ascend the bathtub area, you'll encounter harder climbing than 5.0, but there are a couple ways to get off keeping it 5.4 (see the finish for Schooldaze or traverse right below the final summit overhang & do some down climbing).

As per Climbnh: Sunshine slabs is a 3 pitch climb and we stretched it with 70m ropes


Medium to large gear, but a solo is suggested.
Makes for an efficient descent route from the summit.

Much easier than, say, DAFF Dome in Tuolumne, if that tells you anything. May 24, 2005
Has anyone "found" this route also: it skirts well climber's right of the easy slab. This route is East to NE Aspect starting up a left-facing dihedral flake for about 3 pitches (5.2 to 5.4); then 3rd class right then moving up and left to a shady belay under a gigantic right-facing flake (simul-climbed up to this point); 1 pitch of 5.6R to a comfy ledge; then finishes the upper headwall through an obvious weakness with a couple of 5.8 moves? It's an obvious natural line that probably has been climbed before (probably many times), but it's not the Sunshine Slab & not the Upper Lip. Just wondering what it is. Jun 28, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A fun outing and great beginner's route or just for fun to move on rock. We did 4 pitches starting to the right of a large fallen tree on the face. Placed about 2 or 3 pieces every long pitch. Took 4 pitches to end up at a nice belay below the headwall roof towards the east side. Did one more pitch to skirt east up and around the roof headwall. So far, no climbing harder than 5.4 or so. Found an obvious weakness in the headwall to get to the true summit. Probably closer to 5.8 but just two short moves at that grade. Cool summit. Bit of a tricky 4th class downclimb north and then easy hike back down the east side towards the picnic area. Solid rock the whole way and only encountered one very loose flake. Jun 13, 2009
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
Like the previous comments from above, once you top out on the slab, go to the right towards the summit. There are a couple of fun moves, prob a 5.6. Then the next pitch has the 5.7/8 move, but you can bypass that move by going around to the right about 45 feet, and there is a 5.4/5 move to the summit. This made reaching the summit 6 pitches. This route is perfect for learning and teaching trad placement, anchor building, belay of the best places for learning and sharing. Oct 12, 2013
Are there two Sunshine Slabs? We tried a route far to the right which is much more featured than the very pretty, yet bare, route up the main slab. This area is the first decent and open area you get to when walking in. The Sunshine Slab proper (I'm guessing) is just past this and up a few rocks. There is a large fallen log on the left side of this easy ramp. This route might be further right than what Buff referred to in his comment. Aug 30, 2014
clayton.kimmi   Lawrence
Found gear on Sunday 7/19. If it is yours, I would love to get it back to you. Message me with description, and I will gladly return it. Jul 27, 2015
Karl R. Kiser
Karl R. Kiser  
This is a fun route to get to the summit. We simulclimbed the rectangular face then went left through the bathtubs to the small tree, rather left, below the summit cap. We continued up, set a anchor below the Upper Lip, climbed it, and went to the top (great views). The left exit for Upper Lip is not entirely clear (see my comment there). The fourth class downclimb to the saddle is a bit tricky, a belay for some would be recommended. Aug 9, 2015

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