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Routes in Turret Dome

Aid Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,041 total · 42/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This excellent route climbs a crack system to the west end of the large arching roof on the west face of Turret Dome. The 2nd pitch consists of climbing through large "bathtubs". It can be done in 3 pitches with a 5.4 finish through a nice, left-facing corner/crack on the right side of the summit. A better finish is to take the 5.7 Upper Lip straight on. This is a superb overhanging finger crack that thakes you directly to the summit.


Standard rack. You probably won't feel silly bringing a little bigger gear. There are no fixed stations.
Amos Patrick
Estes Park
Amos Patrick   Estes Park
Great Route! We got a little mixed up on where to begin and end the pitches so we ended up doing it in 5 pitches (with a 50m rope). We started P1 at the base and ended it just after the short chimney section. P2 stopped about 30' short of the roof section because we couldn't keep the rope out of the crack. P3 ended on a huge ledge below the bathtubs. The ledge was too good to pass up for belaying. P4 ended on the east shoulder just past the steep 5.4 crack (a full 50m). P5 was short (maybe 40') to the summit. The summit is great and the descent is exciting but do-able in rock shoes (or Chaco's with 5.10 soles. God bless Chaco's!) May 28, 2002
Follow the crack up using awkard jamming and slab work. Above you the crack will begin to arch towards a point far left. Eventually you will have to turn the corner back towards the right. I placed a #2 Camalot here before committing to the move. Turning this corner was exciting and felt like the crux with very balancy moves and a funky jam. Once established on the other side of this I started to continue up the crack which was still growing wider. Safe to say ran out of big pro with the arch still looming above me and wisely downclimbed back to the corner. I opted here to climb out over the lip at a notch heading left and onto the face. If you have lots of big gear finish with the crack looks like fun. Otherwise I would exit to the left. Be forewarned that my #2 ate the rope and created a substantial rope drag. Thank goodness we were using half rope's. Supper cool climb!!

I really thought this was harder than the 5.5 rating, especially after I no longer had any big gear left. Oct 14, 2002
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
Very runout, especially the first & second pitch. We were off route most of the first pitches and created a crapload of ropedrag trying to get on-route. Did find a nice 5.7-5.8ish finger crack if you exit the belay under the roof about 20 or 30 yards up and left. The upper lip "5.7" crack is about as tough a "5.7" move as I've done, my second could not pull over the roof and it made for a not so pleasant time. I do not recommend the 5.7 crack finish to beginner leaders, it scared the crap out of me and I fall into that category. Downclimb sucked ass as well (5.4ish in places). This climb seemed to not let us go. 1 star for scenery. May 23, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
This route is in no way runout (there is a large crack the whole way up). The second pitch is a bit runout though the bathtubs (3rd class). The upper lip is a fun exit...downclimb is about a stuff. May 27, 2004
David Danforth
David Danforth   California/Colorado
As mentioned above-exiting the crack left before the arch this is really fun-a good alternative if you dont have large pieces of gear. i also liked the 5.7 variation. tough, intimidating because of the exposure, but sweet. be careful with communication-it can be windy. -cheers- Nov 24, 2004
Moose Jaw, SK
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
After finishing the 5.4 crack you are still about 15-20 feet from the summit and are on a huge BBQ ledge. There are a few options from there to get to the actual summit that seemed to vary greatly in difficulty to our group and none of the guide info we had described them. So, I thought I would leave my personal impressions of that section.

If you are imagining the summit as a circle and you are looking straight down on it and the northern downclimb is 12 o'clock then you finish the 5.4 crack at about 7 o'clock. Summiting at 7 o'clock looked/felt about 5.7ish. Summiting at about 5 o'clock up was an easily protected but overhanging crack system which felt 5.9ish. Summiting closer to 3 o'clock felt 5.6ish (one 5.7ish move followed by a 5.4ish ramp). One of our parties went up the 5.9ish route and one went up the 5.6ish route.

Also, we left come cord on the descent because there is one section we felt like rapping down instead of downclimbing. Part of the way down we saw more cord from another party that apparently felt similarly.

Caveat: I'm trying to grades relative to the 5.5 rating of this particular route which, for example, felt two grades stiffer than the same rating would be at Shelf Road. Jun 19, 2006
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
This was a fun exploration route for me in 1996. I set up 1st belay just below where the huge crack begins to head back to the right like a backwards question mark, because I doing the climb on-site and wasn't sure of what I was getting into. Then once I was in the huge crack, I placed a #3 Friend with a runner and a #4 Friend higher up with a double runner just before the crack and route heads back to the left, which kept my rope nicely out of the big crack. My second belay, which I believe is the normal 1st belay, was at the little roof where I found a nice vertical crack that took a #1 Friend and a horizontal that I was able to bury and oppose a #2 Friend with a large nut. I then wondered up the run out 5.3 over to the right before heading straight up for about 100 feet without placing a thing until I stumbled on a large turkey neck in a bathtub to sling for another belay. From there I climbed up to what I felt was a short and stiff, slightly overhanging 5.7 crack. Just then Thor threw a very large bolt, that stuck the summit. I quickly down-climbed and traversed over to the large platform on the right side of the dome and threw in yet another belay so I could get my 2nd, Dave Meyer up as fast as possible. Dave was only 67 then and, it was hard to communicate, but as soon as he arrived we fled down (actually ran rather than walked) the 5.2 ramp back to the start. I've never made it back but sure is a beautiful place. Jul 31, 2007
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
  5.5 R
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
  5.5 R
I really don't see how this doesn't rate an 'R' unless you bring Camalots in the #5 & #6 sizes. I could only get in two crummy pieces in 100' of climbing. I got a #0.5 C4 at the first chockstone/buldge thing down low, which was crummy, and barely got in a #3 C4 up wouldn't have caught a fart let alone a fall! Take a few #4's and higher or be really comfy leading very runout slab.

As for the 5.5 grade? Hard to tell. The climbing, the way I did it at least, was crimpy/thin face climbing to the right of the huge flake, while placing pro on my left in the flake. The flake is waaay too big for the gear I had. I took one #4 Camalot and wanted to save it as long as I could...the thing kept getting wider. I managed to get in a #3 Camalot, but it was practically umbrellad (almost fully expanded) and I didn't have much confidence in it. A few meters above this I found a place for a #6 BD stopper, then moved along the flake to where it peaks to the right before turning sharply left.

At that point I was able to sink a #2 Camalot, which was the best pro on the whole pitch. I still had my #4...great! Heading for the roof I thought I was going to make it, the climbing got easier, but dang! I was thwarted by horrific rope drag as my rope got sucked under the flake as the route went back left...shit! I put in two pieces in a weird crack on the flake, and ended up having to set my belay anchor here as I couldn't move any more.

My partner came up, then led off but the flake was too far away from the face for even the #4 here so he stepped up onto it out onto the face. Fifty more feet of climbing and he could finally get in his first piece. Good times...I guess. Mar 22, 2009
David Pneuman
Western, CO
David Pneuman   Western, CO
Did this today and thought I'd add a few notes. I walked a #3 BD up as my sole piece of gear until past the left then right corners then went left onto the face the rest of the way to the first belay. Wished I had brought my #4, #5 and #6 and I would have gone up to the roof then left. The bathtubs are really cool to climb through; runout, but safe and not scary in the slightest.
The 5.7 finish requires 1 - 5.8 move.
The downclimb to the north follows the path of least resistance and is true Class 4 (annoying, but not dangerous). May 23, 2010
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
This route is a classic! Excellent for the grade and there is ample protection. Highly recommended for the grade.
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Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
This was a fun route -- particularly with the "Upper Lip" finish. Made it to the summit in three pitches with a 70m but used it all on the 1st pitch. I ran it out on the 1st pitch with just a few cams, but it's easy climbing. There are places for more protection, but generally requires large cams. The "bathtubs" on P2 were unusual, and easy. I highly recommend the Upper Lip finish -- but the move over the "lip" is significantly harder than anything else on Schooldaze. For the descent, avoided the downclimb by rapping off the large pine tree on the back side of the summit. There were two good slings on the tree already, so I added a rap ring. If people will leave the slings and rap ring in place on the tree, it makes the descent much easier and fun! Sep 25, 2010
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Approach shoes are more than sufficient, easily simul-climbed, absolutely awesome rock! Harder variations up top are recommended. Jun 5, 2011
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.5 R
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.5 R
First pitch should probably have an R rating unless you bring a #5 or #6 Camalot or some Bigbros. Climbing certainly isn't hard, but I did end up with a 30-40 foot runout where I didn't have gear big enough to protect the crack. Aug 4, 2014
Carl H.  
A fun route. Worth doing just to experience the 'bathtubs'. Great for a warm-up or cool down at the end of a hard day. Dec 19, 2015
Brian Felker
  5.6 R
Brian Felker  
  5.6 R
J. Fox's description matches my experience exactly. Not a good lead for a beginner trad leader. I led as a moderately experienced leader. P1 is extremely runout unless you bring huge cams in the 5" range. The huge runout didn't really bother me until I hit the crux move to pull around the lip and was faced with either trying to plug a cam or a funky hand jam in the flaring crack for some modicum of security. Not much for your hands if you are 5'7" like me. Great holds once you get around the lip. I had to pull through the balancy crux with a 50 foot runout. Scariest lead I've ever done, for that reason. Mostly 5.5, but I would rate the crux at 5.6. The 5.6 leader should beware, because the consequences of a fall at the crux would likely be serious. Feb 10, 2016
Billy Bankman
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Billy Bankman   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The 5.4 crack has a #5 Camalot stuck in it that caused the rope to get stuck requiring my second to ascend the rope, just a heads up. Jun 1, 2016
Woodland Park, Colorado
  5.6 R
cyclestupor   Woodland Park, Colorado
  5.6 R
My buddy and I are just starting to do multi-pitch trad. We wanted a nice easy route for our first multi-pitch climb on our own. Looking at the guidebook, Schooldaze seemed like it fit the bill. 3-4 pitches, easy 5.6 climbing, and 3 stars to boot. Maybe next time I'll check mountainproject comments before we do another multi-pitch.

Armed with cams up to #6, I took the first lead. I tried to follow the guidebook's instructions and make it to the large roof to end the first pitch. Big mistake.... I got some pro in but still ran it out with 30+ feet to my first piece, then 15+ feet between pro after that. I got a questionable nut in (extended w/ 120cm runner) right where the crack goes right and a #4 (maybe a #5) in just before it goes back to the left. Then I tried to proceed to the large roof, and of course I got about 10 feet before the rope drag was unbearable. Thankfully, this looked like the best spot on the whole pitch to build an anchor. I was pretty proud of myself for constructing a good 3 piece using a nut, a tricam, and a finger-sized cam. Then I started pulling rope. I pulled up about 2 feet before the rope became completely stuck.

My first multi-pitch lead was not going well. I tried and tried to free the rope but had no luck. After setting up a rappel, I reluctantly undid my tie-in and rapped down to free the rope. It was jammed in the cam, and the nut I had placed to the left had all but ensured that that this would happen. I removed both of these placements and climbed back up to my anchor while self-belaying with a prussik, and safety knots. As I brought my partner up, the rope slipped deep into the crack but ran smoothly.

My partner climbed up to the roof of the arch placed some gear then exited to the left making a stretchy move. He climbed past the halfway mark on the rope (70m) so, this time we ignored the guidebook, and he belayed at on the flat area before the bathtubs.

The 3rd pitch was a relaxing climb for me. I took my time and found a few obscure but solid nut placements and even 2 cam placements in small cracks slightly to the right of the most prominent bathtubs. I placed the pro mostly just for practice, since any fall would have landed me in one of the tubs before my gear could catch me, but to those who say they couldn't find pro in the bathtubs, I say look harder. I climbed up to the big roof, and not wanting to push my luck (again) by climbing into the unknown with only 1/2 of the rope left, I ended my pitch just below the large roof at the start of the "upper lip" crack.

My buddy led the 4th pitch. The pull up over the roof to get into the "upper lip" crack felt substantially harder than 5.7 to my buddy and me. I mean, I cant recall any other 5.7 climbs that required me to do a no feet pullup, then step high, and crank up to the next hold (maybe I just did it the hard way). It was a fun move but one that I feel would be torture to a 5.7 climber lacking upper body strength. The rest of the pitch was relaxed and easily protected. Jun 6, 2016
Natalie M
Dillon, CO
Natalie M   Dillon, CO
Did in 3 pitches with 70 m rope. P1 - ended maybe 30 ft below the first mini-roof due to the rope drag. The crux was rounding the corner, where I placed BD #2. Slightly runout slab on P2 went easily without the rope drag and the roof/lip before the bathtubs was fun and well-protected with #0.75. Ended P2 above bathtubs. Belay ledge was nice and wide with a convenient boulder for anchor. P3 was a bit confusing with big rope drag. 5.4 crack was straightforward but a bit too wide for BD #3 (my biggest gear). After that we climbed another mini-crack just below the summit that felt harder than 5.4 with difficult feet. Downclimb was easier than expected, we angled left. There's newish looking green webbing on a big dead tree, if needed, but no rap ring or quicklink. Very fun route and pretty long. Aug 1, 2016
Denver, CO
jryaus   Denver, CO
Great route. FYI, someone wrapped a chockstone with some cordelette and a couple biners for a short rappel to make the descent much easier. Just follow the obvious path down the backside, and you'll find it. Thanks to whoever did that! Jun 12, 2017
colorado springs co
AaronP   colorado springs co
Topping out going straight up the roof to a finger crack is definitely Not 5.7. Feels more like Overleaf. Sep 5, 2017

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