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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 856 total, 21/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Aug 28, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

We are offering this as an alternative to Schooldaze. Based on the comments I'm seeing, this is a better-protected first pitch. Three reasonable pitches gets you to the bathtub belt, and then you're back on Schooldaze. The first pitch is the attraction (the second pitch is really easy), and overall I thought it was a better line than Ben Schmitt's guidebook would indicate.

Location

This is the obvious, orange, right-angling corner just a minute or so after you start uphill from the riverside approach trail.

P1. Angle up right to a tree.

P2 goes straight up off belay to easy terrain; belay at large tree at apex of tree island on your left.

P3. Continue up vague right-facing features to smaller, solitary evergreen tree.

P4 is the bathtubs leading to the finish of your choice.

Protection

A normal rack is G/PG in the undercling crack of P1, and it is more than adequate after that. Belays are at trees. Fixed slings for rap at the end of P1.

Photos

Climbed this today... took 6 pitches -- not sure why :-)
P1 is 85% undercling for sure except for the last 15 foot traverse to a "belay tree" - there was new'ish green webbing on it. Don't plan on face climbing the first pitch.
P2 - I placed (2) pieces - way easy up to the tree island. Used the huge tree for the belay with a couple of directionals.
P3 - up to the small bomber tree (6-8 inches) - no other opportunity for a decent belay, but the tree worked well.
P4 - through the bathtubs, slung some horns placed a couple of small pieces, 0.4 X4 and I think a 0.4 C4 then built a belay in a decent crack in a flat area between the two cracks 5.7 (left) and the 5.4 (right).
P5 - chose the 5.4 crack as my wife's foot was starting to hurt a little. This is where it got "weird". After topping out on the 5.4 crack (20ft-25ft), a traverse begins along the Dome's right side. I kept looking for a way to the top. There were some thin cracks but nothing that looked 5.4 to me (what did I miss or do wrong?). So, I kept traversing and traversing. This traverse is only moderately protectable. It is easy, traversing (almost walking), but you can only get a piece in like every 30 feet unless you have a half dozen #5 C4s :-). I finally found a decent horizontal belay crack about 100ft along this traverse.
P6 - another 40-50 feet and there is a break that allowed me to climb out to the left but still not on top. I set the belay in a big, flat area where there was a decent 2-4 inch crack where I was sitting. Once my wife arrived, we were both able to untie here and get to the top with a little minor easy scrambling - no exposure.

The downclimb sucked - especially with gear on (had to lower some at one point). We went directly off the back side to the saddle between the two valleys that wrap around Turret Dome. Definitely 5.4 downclimb. There was some really rotten old tat slung around a rock but not usable. I had to belay my wife down. Then after lowering most of my gear, I was able to slowly and cautiously downclimb (again did I miss something?) -- seemed like the only way off the top to me.

Anyway, it was a great day, beautiful weather and it's Eleven Mile Canyon. Pretty decent scenery I must say. Climb safe....

PS - I had (2) #4 C4s with me, and I used them often. May 5, 2017