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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dennis Jump and Stewart Green
Page Views: 1,445 total, 9/month
Shared By: Stewart M. Green on Apr 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This excellent sport route is down right from the "Guide's Route" and immediately right of the route named "Unknown 5.8" here. Start below a right-angling groove. Layback past a leaning crack (#2 Camalot) to a short bottoming crack. Work up the shallow groove with delicate smears and edges past 3 bolts. Finish up left on easier rock past another bolt to the final bolt on "Unknown 5.8". Surmount a short headwall to a 2-bolt anchor on a shelf.

Protection

5 quickdraws, #2 Camalot, also another small Camalot or large wire for the nervous.

Photos

Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
This is a fun route, worth leading for anyone that does 5.10 slabs, and easy to top rope from Car Stud's anchors if you don't want to lead it. You can protect the climb below the first bolt with about a #3 Camalot. It's a great (although short) layback up the start of the crack. The crux was the water groove above where the crack fizzles out. It's very thin there, and I struggled to get up it, but the smooth crux can be bypassed about 4 feet on the left (still easy reach of bolts) with a few 5.8ish moves. Sep 25, 2010
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
 
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
 
Very fun route. It is possible to top-rope this climb after leading the 5.8 just to the left (unknown 1). Sep 10, 2005
Larry Shaw
  5.10b
Larry Shaw  
  5.10b
The water groove felt the same as the 11mile dome east face direct. nice and thin edging and smearing. Jun 15, 2004