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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Bill Schmausser and Jules Van de Hei
Page Views: 1,397 total, 18/month
Shared By: Kenan on May 30, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This is the center of the 3 bolted routes in the upper arch on the West face of Turret Dome. It is tricky down low and again about 2/3 of the way up. It is thin but direct, and it's all there. Excellent route and spectacular setting.

Location

This is the middle of 3 bolted routes in the upper arch on the West face of Turret Dome, above and left of Guide's Route and other harder lines on the West face. It requires a short, 5.4-ish solo to reach the face below the arch.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Kenan
 
Kenan  
 
Thanks, Kenny. The route descriptions and names here were based on info from the "Rock Climbing Colorado" Falcon guidebook by Stuart Green. I have brought up the discrepancies with Ben Schmitt, and it does sound like his new guidebook is likely to be correct on these details, as he reviewed the info for these routes with Bill Schmausser, part of the FA party. Updating route details accordingly. Sep 8, 2013
Kenny P
Woodland Park
  5.10a/b
Kenny P   Woodland Park
  5.10a/b
As per the "Eleven Miles to Freedom" Guide, this route is named "Junior Jules Doiks a Digit" and is listed at 5.10b***

"Great climbing up a harder-than-it-looks-start, to a run out after the second bolt. Edge through hollow sounding flakes up and right to a high, height-dependent crux. Easy climbing leads to shared anchors with 'Escorndido'. 6 bolts to a three bolt rappel anchor. (40 ft)."

I climbed this one on Saturday Aug. 24, 2013 and thought it spot on with the description. Not terribly difficult and well worth the short trip up the slab for this and the right-most route - "Escorndido" 5.10a**. Aug 25, 2013