Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Bill Schmausser and Britt Anderson in 2001
Page Views: 2,668 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris R on Mar 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


18 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

I have no idea if this route exists in a guide anywhere or not--it is a link up of an existing short sport route and a nice corner/flake system. One of the better lines up Turret. The start is a sport line just 15 feet to the right of the start of Guide's Route (see Guide's Route description for details). There is a worthless silver bolt about 6 feet off the ground. Climb this sport line straight up past 5 or so bolts to anchors in a bathtub. You can set a belay here if you like; I usually continue onwards with the first lead. From the anchors, run it out up and right, aiming for a huge flake that forms a left-facing corner. Once you arrive at the corner, cruise up on solid rock. There is a hidden belay that can be found 3/4 up the corner by slinging a large horn and sitting on an airy ledge next to the horn. The next pitch finishes the corner and aims straight up for a blocky roof which is about 20' wide. You can set good anchors in the horizontal crack beneath the roof. The easiest pull over the roof is to the climbers right. From there move upwards through blocks to the summit--variations exist from 5.5 to 5.8 depending on the line. Descent is interesting 5-easy downclimb on the opposite side of the dome from this line. NOTE: I have given this a 5.7 rating due to my own impressions. Take it with a grain of salt....

If this is an established line, my apologies to the FAs. Has anyone else ever done this/is it in a guide?

Protection Suggest change

4 or 5 bolts on P1, standard rack for the rest. A few small camming units (yellow & red Alien) come in handy. Slings can ease drag as the route winds a bit.

Photos

loading