Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bill Schmausser & Wife, 2000
Page Views: 1,323 total · 7/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This route is located on the wall to the right of Guide's Route and left around the corner from the start of Jaws. There are five bolted routes on this wall that range from 5.8 to 5.10. This is the route on the far right side.

Excellent friction climb up a solid granite face. There is a sizeable runout between the 1st and 2nd bolts (with significant ground fall potential) that can be protected with a #2 camalot in a horizontal seam midway between the two. The crux is this face moves just above the 3rd bolt. Above the 4th bolt, the climbing eases significantly to the anchors. Either rap with one rope (50m will work), or traverse left and set a top rope on just about any of the other routes. Good route while waiting to get on Guide's Route.

Protection

Five quickdraws plus anchor. A #2 Camalot protects the runout between bolts 1 and 2.

Photos

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
This is an excellent granite friction route. The climbing is easy near the cam placement. Crux is right at third bolt and requires two thin friction moves. Fun finish to anchors. Three stars for this moderate sport climb on clean rock. Jul 19, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.8
Larry Shaw  
  5.8
Fun climbing with one or two .8 friction moves to easier climbing above. Jun 15, 2004
Ryan Carlino
  5.8-
Ryan Carlino  
  5.8-
Checked out the new bolted area on Turret Dome on Sat. We saw the 5 bolted routes. This "Unknown 5.8" is the second from the right. To the right is Sloppy Shoes (5.10) which shares anchors with this one. Heading left is the 5.9. These three are all in one area. The next two are up a steep gully, which ends at Guide's Route.

The description above is correct - 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lower/rappel-friendly oval links. Good climbing and good bolts.Bring the #2 Camalot. Total height of this route is about 60'. You could scramble to the anchors of the 5.9 from the top. The next route after that is way further. We TR'd the 5.9 without changing the anchors and had a MAJOR sidepull toward the top - it'd be better to just move the anchor. Good Stuff. May 9, 2005
Ryan Carlino
  5.8-
Ryan Carlino  
  5.8-
One last thing: between this route and the adjacent 5.9 to the left, just below the anchors, is a spare bolt. I don't know what it's for, unless you want to use it to climb from one climb to the other. May 9, 2005
Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO
The name of this climb is Car Stud 5.9. Put it up with my wife in 2000. May 18, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.8
Buff Johnson  
  5.8
Referring to the description provided - this is a mixed-pro climb for a lead; not a runout sport climb. Mar 20, 2007
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Good climb. Bring the #2 cam, otherwise it is well protected by the bolts. As of Sept 2010, the bolts and anchors all still look great. Thanks for putting up the route, Bill! Sep 25, 2010