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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Schmausser and Britt Anderson, 2000
Page Views: 1,249 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

On the wall between Guide's Route and Jaws are five bolted routes. This route is the second from the right. It is a little more featured than the 5.8 on the wall, and it doesn't have the runout. A couple of strenuous moves lead to the first bolt not far off the ground. Great climbing using side pulls and ledges between the 2nd and 4th bolts. This route felt a lot more ballancy and reachy than Unknown 1. Rap with a one rope (50m ok), or traverse to the next set of anchors and set a top rope.

Protection

Five quickdraws and anchors.

Photos

Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO
The name of this route is "The Mexicanist". 5.10a. Put up by Britt Anderson & me in 2000 May 18, 2006
This is the third-from-the-right bolted route in the gully from Schooldaze up to Guides Route. It begins as far left from the first 2 (lowest) routes as you can go before you hit the rock gully. The first bolt is right above the initial jug. You can even stem the wall behind you at this point.

The route follows 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering links. This is the second anchor station from the right (the first 2 routes share the first anchors). You could scramble between these two as they're only 15' apart. The next anchors to the left are further away and higher up. The first 2 bolts head straight up. Then the route moves left for 2 bolts and then back right for the last one.

Note: between this route and the Unknown 5.8 is an unused bolt just before the anchors. Maybe it's for transitioning between the anchors? May 9, 2005
Larry Shaw
  5.9
Larry Shaw  
  5.9
Very balancy moves, but fun. Jun 15, 2004
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
Excellent granite climb in moderate range. Grab bucket at start and smear up feet which is fun. Two short sections of 5.9 above are interesting friction/balance problems. At the crux my partner did the moves differently than me. This climb is three stars. All the sport routes on this wall are three stars. Jul 19, 2003