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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,348 total, 10/month
Shared By: Larry M Shaw on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

There are 3 bolted face routes under the upper arch. They have good face climbing on big holds. These are some of the best sport climbs on the dome.

Per S. Green, "the middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5)."

Location

Hike past Guide's Route to the obvious arch with 3 bolted lines and two anchors.

Protection

6-7 bolts. 2 anchors for 3 routes.

Photos

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Climbed in the Upper Arch area yesterday. Great views for sure. The leftmost route "under the arch" is Most Toppest, because there is definitely NOT a 2nd pitch as Junior Jules Doinks a Digit has. As for the 5.7 rating, there are definitely major, positive holds on portions of this route, but the cruxes feel harder than 5.7. It is a very vertical route with several areas where a good amount of balancing is required. I would rate it at 5.8+, but I'm 6'1" :-) My 5'5" wife struggled on this route, so keep that in mind. Climb safely! Jun 29, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9
There is some confusion between the guidebooks. As far as I can remember, the left-hand line of bolts on this wall is listed as Most Toppest in the Schmidt guide (I don't have it to hand), but his diagram shows it further left than the left-most line of bolts and he gives it 5.7. In Stewart Green's guide, this line is shown as P1 of Junior Jules Doinks a Digit, 5.10b.

5.9 or 5.9+ seems about right (though it comes as a bit of a shock when you're told it's a 5.7 "jugfest"!) as there are some very balancy moves (worth UK 5b) before and after bolt #3. Oct 16, 2013
These three routes are all just wonderful. I actually thought Junior Jules Doinks a Digit was the easiest of the three, regardless they are all in the 5.9+ range. Aug 15, 2011
The middle route is named Escorndido (5.9+). The left route is Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10a) and is a great 2-pitch line. The right route is Innerspace Arch (5.9+). The far left easy slab route is Most Toppest (5.5). Aug 15, 2006
Larry M Shaw  
 
I climbed the left and center route yesterday. Both felt like they were in the .9 range. We didn't have time for the right route, but it looked a touch easier. I haven't climbed in a while, so the grades might be off a bit. Just left of the arch was a 5.1 bolted route for beginners, felt like Sunshine Slab. Once at either anchor, you can walk across a ledge and set up the other anchor. Aug 12, 2006