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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Bill Schmausser and Britt Anderson
Page Views: 974 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kenan on May 30, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This has thin and exciting moves on a steep wall below the arch up high on the west face of Turret Dome. It is cruxy down low, and the sequences seem to continually change direction.

Work a right-angling ledge down low to thin face indentations back to the left. Beware of slight pendulum falls as the top of the route moves left.


This is the rightmost of the 3 bolted routes in the upper arch on the west face of Turret Dome, above and left of Guide's Route and other harder routes on the West face. Spectactular setting! It requires a short, 5.4-ish solo to get to the arch.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Thanks, Kenny. The route descriptions and names here were based on info from the "Rock Climbing Colorado" Falcon guidebook by Stuart Green. I have brought up the discrepancies with Ben Schmitt, and it does sound like his new guidebook is likely to be correct on these details, as he reviewed the info for these routes with Bill Schmausser, part of the FA party. Updating route details accordingly. Sep 8, 2013
Kenny P
Woodland Park
Kenny P   Woodland Park
The route list on the left margin of the screen has confused, omitted, and mislabeled several of the routes in the Turret Dome Area. There is a route called "Inner Space Arch", which is a 5.9 trad route. This is a two pitch route; however, only the first pitch is recommended in the guidebook (not be me though).

A better route (not listed here although mentioned in some of the comments) is called "Aid Route, 5.10a** (Trad). This is located far right from the upper arch area.

A genuine, not-to-be-missed classic is called "Smoke Pot... Check Your Knot", 5.10b**** this route is the first sport route DOWN and RIGHT of the "Upper Arch Area" (Where Esconrdido is located).
For "Smoke Pot...", 10b "Technique past three bolts to the overlap, then take the gorgeous interesting slab above past a high crux to obvious anchors, must do route of the area! 8 bolts."

Climbed this one on Saturday Aug. 24th, 2013 with my wife and thought this was the best of the bunch! Aug 25, 2013
Kenny P
Woodland Park
Kenny P   Woodland Park
This is the right-most route in the "Upper Arch area and has been mislabeled in MP's guide; according to "Eleven Miles to Freedom" guidebook this route is called "Escorndido" and listed at 5.10a**.

"A quality route on the right side of the arch. Take the awesome "rib" features up and right, then weave back left through crazy, technical moves up bulbous features to a shared anchor with 'Junior Jules Doiks a Digit'. 6 bolts. Three bolt rappel anchor; 50ft."

I climbed this route on Saturday Aug. 24th, 2013 with my wife. We thought the trip up the short, easy slab to gain this route and "Junior..." were well worth it! The route description is spot on, and I felt the rating to be in line with the climbing- the moves up high are fun and interesting. Enjoy!

  • The picture above is correct though.
Aug 25, 2013