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Routes in Turret Dome

Car Stud S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escorndido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fashionably Uninvited T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fishook T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guide's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Mexicanist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schooldaze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sloppy Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Slab T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Upper Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Lip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Habel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcoming, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Stress T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio?
Page Views: 2,131 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Jun 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

If you've slogged up either Schooldaze or Jaws, this route is the pay-off. From atop the bathtubs, move up to the horizontal crack which appears to demarcate the turret after which this rock is named. The beginning of the vertical hand crack ascending from this point is slightly overhanging, but the gear and the holds are all bomber. Once the crack starts to peter out after forty or fifty feet, move left to some large blocks which will take you up to the summit.

Protection

Large nuts, medium to large hexes, cams to three inches, and a place for a pink tricam near the start of the route.

Photos

Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
5.8
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
5.8
Did this to top off Jaws. After the lip, we followed the crack up and left where there is one more lip/bulge like move, both are well-protected with cams. As for the rating, it's an 'old-school' 5.7 (little stiffer than modern). Pulling the lip is the crux.

Plug a cam, keep a snug belay, and go for it! It's a fun climb. Sep 6, 2015
Karl Kiser
  5.7
Karl Kiser  
  5.7
We climbed Sunshine Face to get to this exit with a light rack (wires, one set cams #0.5 to #4 Camalot and long draws). The moves at the wider crack are not too hard with help from face holds on the right. The #4 is good somewhat up the crack. Things get a bit more murky at the top of the crack where it becomes horizontal. I didn't see a clear crack to the left, although it appears that a traverse this way and up is the route. We continued right about 20 feet, with a piece to keep the rope out of the crack, and then climbed a steeper crack (#3 Camalot here, 5.8? and harder than Upper Lip) and went to the top. Great views.... Aug 9, 2015
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.9-
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.9-
I either suck at crack climbing or this is harder than 5.7. I used the finger crack to pull over this versus jamming...maybe that was the problem. Still...a super fun climb! Nov 26, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
This was a great finish to SchoolDaze. Taller climbers will find the "roof" move fairly moderate (I called it 5.7+), because the crack is excellent and you can step up high with your feet. But shorter climbers will find it much more difficult because they will not have much for their feet to work with. My only complaint about this pitch is that it was just too short.... Sep 25, 2010
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Sorry Jeff, but I'd say no less than 5.7. Perhaps you are thinking of the crack maybe 25 feet to the climber's right of the one shown in the picture. I have seen the right one rated at 5.4, perhaps in the Falcon guide, and it felt like 5.4. Jul 14, 2008
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
I think this is no harder then 5.5. I first climbed this in the mid eighties and my friend said 5.4. It is not a roof just a high crack in a roof. Jul 25, 2007
Squid  
So i guess whining over the actualy terminology of a roof is the cool thing to do. Either enjoy the route or dont , kinda simple? Jun 23, 2005
James Burns  
 
Hard to call any moves harder then 5.7, but definitely awkward going over the roof. I kept going straight up after the crack ended instead of trending left. Still no harder than 5.7, but keeps the climbing interesting for a bit longer. May 17, 2004
Coy: overmodest, affectedly bashful.

I call it a "roof" if any part of it is near horizontal. Makes me feel better, as in: "Dude, that roof was heinous!" ; "you mean that undercling flake?"

In this case, I'd say the horizontal part is at least 3 feet. Jun 5, 2002
Jon Cannon  
 
Define "coy", Darin. ;-) Perhaps for those of us with simian arms, it doesn't feel like much of a roof. Now, if only I had simian strength to go with it ...

Seriously, though. I thought I'd read somewhere that to be a true "roof", it has to project from the main wall about six feet. Am I just making up something out of the aether? Jun 5, 2002
"Slightly overhanging" start? I think you're just being coy. The start is actually a small roof that must be negotiated in order to gain the crack proper. This route is indeed a "reward" for slogging up Jaws or Schooldaze - quite fun, if disappointingly short. Jun 5, 2002