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Routes in Springer Gulch Wall

Bill and Britt One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bill and Britt Two S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kokopelli S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Cleavage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McLaughling S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Schmaussers S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunkist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surfing With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glenn Schuler, 1987
Page Views: 1,493 total · 20/month
Shared By: Glenn Schuler on May 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start with a reachy move to gain a ledge, then follow the seam/crack until it peters out and the angle steepens. Crank through the crux zone and work your way onto "The Ramp". A final headwall with positive but pumpy holds guards the anchors. Old school bolt spacing adds some excitement!

Location [Suggest Change]

Located a couple hundred feet left of the Sunkist Slab, this route climbs up the middle of a pear shaped face. It is the second bolted line to the right of the obvious Intimidator Roof crack. Start at a small pine tree growing off the ledge.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is an awesome route, but it felt harder than 12a to me. For example, Frozen in Time, which located at the ice box, felt much easier, yet it is also rated a 5.12a. Maybe I just need to figure out some different beta. I would like to climb this route again before I give a grade. I am curious what others think an accurate grade for this route is. Jul 3, 2016
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
 
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
 
Glad you liked the route, Matt! A lot of my friends/partners have been on it over the years, and all but one or two have agreed with the 12a rating. Bob & Carrie Robertson did it not too long after I put it up and thought it was 11c! Ouch.
As for the Icebox route comparison, I'm sure that is just old school ratings vs. more recent sport routes. Whatever the grade, still one of my fav's.

Cheers Jul 9, 2016
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Glenn, thanks for the feedback. I will get back on the route soon (and not at the end of a long hot day) and try and offer a grade. In any case, it's a very fun route with different types of climbing that keep you engaged all the way to the chains. Jul 9, 2016

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