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Routes in Springer Gulch Wall

Bill and Britt One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bill and Britt Two S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kokopelli S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Cleavage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McLaughling S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Schmaussers S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunkist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surfing With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Elevation: 8,547 ft
GPS: 38.93, -105.425 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,213 total, 53/month
Shared By: Rich F. on May 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The wall sits high above the entrance to the Springer Gulch Campground area (see photo). The south-facing wall does not appear to get much traffic, but the rock is good and it appears to have a variety of bolted climbs.

NOTE -- for route descriptions in this area and around Colorado, I highly recommend Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd Edition (2010)" guidebook. I've bought most of the guidebooks for Colorado, but if I could only purchase one, this would be it :-)
Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Getting There

As you enter the Springer Gulch Campground, there are a few campsites at the bend in the road before it goes about 400 yards up to the main campground loop. The wall is directly (and high) above these first campsites. From the these campsites, look up (north) to see the wall, cross through the second campsite and follow a path that heads uphill to the wall. It's easy to find, but the last 1/3 of the hike is fairly steep uphill. It's about a 10 or 15 minute approach hike to the base of the wall.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Springer Gulch Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunkist
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Cleavage
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bill and Britt Two
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surfing With The Alien
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunkist 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lichen Cleavage 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bill and Britt Two 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Surfing With The Alien 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Springer Gulch Wall »

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Photos

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
That sounds like the Scoop Wall J. Sep 16, 2014
J. Broussard
CordryCorner
J. Broussard   CordryCorner
A short walk around the (climber's) right and slightly uphill of SGW is another wall with a handful of bolted routes. Is there any info on these routes? Sep 15, 2014

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