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Routes in Springer Gulch Wall

Bill and Britt One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bill and Britt Two S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kokopelli S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Cleavage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McLaughling S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Schmaussers S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunkist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surfing With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark VanHorn
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rich F. on May 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description [Edit]

Stewart Green's excellent guidebook gives this unknown climb a 5.11 rating. My daughter tried it and believes it is much harder than 5.11. The protection is good, but there is not much to work with on the overhanging section above the obvious hold at the 3rd bolt. It is a tough climb.

Location [Edit]

This is a short climb up a blunt, overhanging prow about 25 feet right of the wavy slab containing Sunkist and Cleavage.

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks, Ben. My daughter would agree with you -- I changed the rating on the climb, and I will look for your new guidebook. Jun 4, 2011
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b/c
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b/c
The FA on this is Mark VanHorn. I had the 2nd ascent on this and confirmed the grade. Dec 20, 2013

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