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Routes in Springer Gulch Wall

Bill and Britt One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bill and Britt Two S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kokopelli S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Cleavage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McLaughling S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Schmaussers S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunkist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surfing With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, early '90s
Page Views: 654 total, 8/month
Shared By: Rich F. on May 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This is a pretty straightforward climb with a definite crux at about the 3rd bolt. I thought the crux was tough and only was able to do it because I was tall enough (5' 10") to reach a good hold after edging up a couple feet on a couple of crimps and thin feet. However, my daughter (5'5") climbed the route with ease -- but she's a much better climber than me :-)

Location

This is on the right side of the wavy slab next to Sunkist.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

a Ball
Boulder, CO
 
a Ball   Boulder, CO
 
I won't suggest a grade, because I haven't been climbing long enough to really know what's what, but damn, this was the hardest 5.8 I've ever been on. It felt harder than the first pitch of People's Choice in Clear Creek to me.

Also, bring up some nuts to eliminate the runout between bolts 2 and 3. I left them on the ground, but the climbing was easy enough. Jun 29, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10a/b
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10a/b
In a 3 week trip to Colorado this year, the hardest move I met was by bolt #4 on this route ("5.8"!!) - even with a rope above me, I fell off a couple of times before managing the teetery step-up and lunge to get the good hold above the crux. In UK technical grades, it's probably worth 6a or F6c. Oct 16, 2013
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Nice story behind the name, Glenn -- thanks for putting up the fun routes! Jun 4, 2011
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, early '90s. We called it Lichen the Cleavage. That's what you get when you send your wife up the route in a sports bra with a wire brush to clean on a hot day! May 29, 2011