GPS: 38.954, -105.39 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,784 total · 56/month
Shared By: Bill Schmausser on May 20, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Sunny 'til mid afternoon, this is a great place to take the kids climbing. Mostly easy bolted routes. Ten draws and a 50 meter rope will cover all but one climb. My wife loves to take a book and a portable chair and suntan here.

Getting There

Essentially the larger right hand mass of the dome that hosts the Spray Wall, the Water Dome located 2.1 miles past the pay station at the canyon entrance. Park as for the Spray Wall, walk down past the Spray Wall and around the corner to the dome.

L->R:

Per Rich F:

A. Waterslide, 8, (blue)-- follows kind of an inverse J shape. Good route. Basically a slab climb, but well protected by the bolts. Crux between 2nd and 4th bolts. Anchors below the lip.
B. Sleeping Beauty, 7, (red) -- fun climb. Basically goes straight up and over a small bulge/roof which is well protected with a bolt. Anchors about 10' past the bulge. Worth climbing!
C. Left (easy) start to "Heels Over Heads" (green) -- bolts angle up and right from just to the right of Sleeping Beauty. Looks like an alternate (easier -- maybe 5.7) way to get to the "Heels Over Head" crack through the large roof. Did not climb it, but looked doable.
D. Water Babies, 11, (blue) -- not sure of the name, but it is VERY difficult, near vertical, slab climbing at the bottom half. Could probably be top roped from the "Tourist" anchors.
E. Right start to "Heels Over Heads" AKA "River Madness", 5.10, (red) -- this was tough slab climbing thru the first 3 or 4 bolts (I toproped it from the "Tourist" anchors and slipped numerous times). After about 20' of climbing, the route becomes easier and there are better placements for feet and hands. I'd rate the top half at a fun 5.7, but it's hard to get up there.
F. Tourists and Fishermen, 8, (green) -- angles to the right for first 15 feet, then goes straight up to the anchors. There was one hard move (5.8) where it turns to go up (but my wife made it look easy!) This is also a fun climb worth doing. The anchors can be used to toprope the harder technical routes on the left.
G. Kiddo Climb, 5, (purple) -- on the far right side of the wall. Easy climb, with closely-spaced bolts. Would make an easy first lead.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Knome Dome aka Water Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Sleeping Beauty
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Tourists and Fishermen
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Heels over Heads
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sleeping Beauty
 45
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Tourists and Fishermen
 25
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Heels over Heads
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Knome Dome aka Water Dome »

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