Elevation: 8,865 ft
GPS: 38.933, -105.369 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,657 total · 530/month
Shared By: Hans Hoffman on Jun 11, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Tucked away south of Elevenmile Canyon proper, Heaven's Gate will make a sport climber's dreams come true. This secluded and uncrowded area is all sport climbing on solid, overhanging granite, with awesome patinas, slopers, and beautiful crimps. Plus, the approaches are no longer than 10 minutes. Heaven's Gate became a reality after Nathan and Lauren Hollingsworth discovered it with Ben Schmitt, Brian Rhodes, Scott Hahn, Perri Rothweiler, and Logan Davis developing this crag heavily over the summer of 2010.

You will find no trouble camping here with no fees or access issues. Most routes have chain anchors with fairly optimal belaying. Classic routes are Intercontinental, Shotgun Pinata, and Fight or Flight to name a few. For the ambitious type, there are plenty of sweet open projects and bouldering here to be sent so get on it quick!!

And on your way out don't forget to grab a Flow-storm or a Mountain Burger at the small gas station (the one with the "Beer Store" sign). Finally, with Ben's permission, I provide this data, so ALL credit goes to him and the folks aforementioned and his new book -- Eleven Miles to Freedom: The Rock Climber's Guide to Elevenmile Canyon

Getting There

The following is verbatim from Ben's book: Take Co Rd 96 out of Lake George (which turns into FS 244 past the fork which leads to entrance of the main canyon), all the way around Blue Mountain where it rejoins Co Rd 98 at a large fork. Continue up the small hill, and turn right at the white sign labeled "Circle C Ranch", and take the right fork onto FS 244 (the left fork leads to the Circle C Ranch). Follow this for 0.4 miles, cross a seasonal puddle, and turn left immediately after that onto FS 244A for 0.2 miles, through a meadow where the road splits for 40 feet then rejoins, and turn left on FS 244B. Continue up the fill for 0.5 miles to where the road dead ends at a cul-de-sac and the parking for the crags.

  • Note: you will want to take a vehicle with high clearance.

Per Rich F.: from Colorado Springs from US Hwy 24, take a left at the small red "Saddle Up Realty" building in Florissant on Teller County Road 46, and drive 2.4 miles to where the road forks. Take the right fork, which is CO-98 and drive 1.8 miles until it merges with Blue Mountain Road. Drive another 0.9 miles and you will be at the right turn for the Circle C ranch and FS-244. Continue with the description up top. This short cut on good roads cuts the corner off from Florissant to Lake George, saving about 5 miles of driving. Once on FS-244, a high clearance vehicle is recommended for the remainder of the drive.

44 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Heaven's Gate Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Heaven's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
The Photo Route
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Death Star Compactor
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Laura's Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Adult Supervision
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Intercontinental
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Total Levitation
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Devil in the White City
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Premonition aka Lauren's Overhang
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 27
Therapist
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 21
The Happy Pier
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Alley Cat
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Quisling
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Arco Arena
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Shotgun Piñata
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
Total Devastation
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Photo Route Emerald Isle
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Death Star Compactor Emerald Isle
 34
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Laura's Arete Emerald Isle
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Adult Supervision Emerald Isle
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Intercontinental Plebian Wall
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Total Levitation Emerald Isle
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Devil in the White City Emerald Isle
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Premonition aka Lauren's O… Plebian Wall
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Therapist Emerald Isle
 27
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Happy Pier Emerald Isle
 21
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Alley Cat Plebian Wall
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Quisling Emerald Isle
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Arco Arena Plebian Wall
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Shotgun Piñata Plebian Wall
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Total Devastation Emerald Isle
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Heaven's Gate »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos