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Areas in Heaven's Gate

Emerald Isle, The 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Heaven's Gate Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Inception Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Parking Lot Boulders, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Plebian Wall, The 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elevation: 8,865 ft
GPS: 38.933, -105.369 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,299 total · 268/month
Shared By: Hans Hoffman on Jun 11, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Tucked away south of Elevenmile Canyon proper, Heaven's Gate will make a sport climber's dreams come true. This secluded and uncrowded area is all sport climbing on solid, overhanging granite, with awesome patinas, slopers, and beautiful crimps. Plus, the approaches are no longer than 10 minutes. Heaven's Gate became a reality after Nathan and Lauren Hollingsworth discovered it with Ben Schmitt, Brian Rhodes, Scott Hahn, Perri Rothweiler, and Logan Davis developing this crag heavily over the summer of 2010.

You will find no trouble camping here with no fees or access issues. Most routes have chain anchors with fairly optimal belaying. Classic routes are Intercontinental, Shotgun Pinata, and Fight or Flight to name a few. For the ambitious type, there are plenty of sweet open projects and bouldering here to be sent so get on it quick!!

And on your way out don't forget to grab a Flow-storm or a Mountain Burger at the small gas station (the one with the "Beer Store" sign). Finally, with Ben's permission, I provide this data, so ALL credit goes to him and the folks aforementioned and his new book -- Eleven Miles to Freedom: The Rock Climber's Guide to Elevenmile Canyon. If you want one, send him your address and a check (made out to Blue Mountain Climbing, LLC) for $24 (for shipping and handling) to:

Ben Schmitt
4130 Three Graces Dr
Colorado Springs, CO
80904

Check out his blog if you have free time on your hands: benlikestoclimb.wordpress.com/

Getting There

The following is verbatim from Ben's book: Take Co Rd 96 out of Lake George (which turns into FS 244 past the fork which leads to entrance of the main canyon), all the way around Blue Mountain where it rejoins Co Rd 98 at a large fork. Continue up the small hill, and turn right at the white sign labeled "Circle C Ranch", and take the right fork onto FS 244 (the left fork leads to the Circle C Ranch). Follow this for 0.4 miles, cross a seasonal puddle, and turn left immediately after that onto FS 244A for 0.2 miles, through a meadow where the road splits for 40 feet then rejoins, and turn left on FS 244B. Continue up the fill for 0.5 miles to where the road dead ends at a cul-de-sac and the parking for the crags.

  • Note: you will want to take a vehicle with high clearance.

Per Rich F.: from Colorado Springs from US Hwy 24, take a left at the small red "Saddle Up Realty" building in Florissant on Teller County Road 46, and drive 2.4 miles to where the road forks. Take the right fork, which is CO-98 and drive 1.8 miles until it merges with Blue Mountain Road. Drive another 0.9 miles and you will be at the right turn for the Circle C ranch and FS-244. Continue with the description up top. This short cut on good roads cuts the corner off from Florissant to Lake George, saving about 5 miles of driving. Once on FS-244, a high clearance vehicle is recommended for the remainder of the drive.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Heaven's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
The Photo Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Lumberjack HiJinks
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Storm Warning
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Death Star Compactor
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Laura's Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Adult Supervision
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Intercontinental
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Devil in the White City
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Therapist
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
The Happy Pier
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Slack Attack
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Quisling
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
Total Devastation
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Photo Route Emerald Isle
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lumberjack HiJinks Emerald Isle
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Storm Warning Emerald Isle
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Death Star Compactor Emerald Isle
 20
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Laura's Arete Emerald Isle
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Adult Supervision Emerald Isle
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Intercontinental Plebian Wall
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Devil in the White City Emerald Isle
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Therapist Emerald Isle
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Happy Pier Emerald Isle
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Slack Attack Emerald Isle
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Quisling Emerald Isle
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Total Devastation Emerald Isle
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Heaven's Gate »

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Photos

Step hen
Fort Collins, CO
Step hen   Fort Collins, CO
Great area, especially the Plebeian Wall. Anyone know anything about the short routes on the boulder closest to the parking area? Jul 6, 2011
Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado Springs, CO
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado Springs, CO
There is more rock out there near Heaven's Gate. This weekend I'll be doing some exploring.... Sep 22, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Alternate directions to save a few minutes if coming from Colorado Springs on Hwy 24:
-- From Hwy 24, take a left at the small red "Saddle Up Realty" building in Florissant on Teller County Road 46, and drive 2.4 miles to where the road forks. Take the right fork, which is CO-98 and drive 1.8 miles until it merges with Blue Mountain Road. Drive another 0.9 miles and you will be at the right turn for the Circle C ranch and FS-244. Continue with the description up top. This short cut on good roads cuts the corner off from Florissant to Lake George, saving about 5 miles of driving. Once on FS-244, a high clearance vehicle is recommended for the remainder of the drive. Jun 5, 2013
Lauren Colizza
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Lauren Colizza   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dr. Dre
Manitou Springs, CO
Dr. Dre   Manitou Springs, CO
Found some gear at Heaven's Gate last weekend. If you left something there, Pmail me at fiedlerac@gmail.com with a description of what it is, and I'll do my best to get it back to you. Aug 5, 2016

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