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Routes in Water Sculpt Wall

Heavenly Scoops S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kalamis Aqua S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 8,172 ft
GPS: 38.94, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,163 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This beautiful Southwest-facing wall hosts two quality moderate pitches with room for a handful of others. The rock here is a very interesting form of granite, which has been scooped out and sculpted by years of water to form intricate runnels, tufus, and bathtubs.
Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Getting There

The crag is located across the river on the far east (downstream) side of Arch Rock. The best approach is to park the the bridge 300 feet downstream from arch rock, walk along the river heading upstream for about 100 feet, then cut up the hillside (the trail cliffs out if you don't) aiming for a notch on top of the cliff. Summit the hill, then head back don and left to reach the cliff by the river. You know you're there when you see the obvious, low angle, water pod covered wall.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Water Sculpt Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Heavenly Scoops
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heavenly Scoops 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
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Photos

Hangers are not there as of today.

Also if the water is low, you can just cross it. The wall is very visible from the road, and almost visible from the nearest pullout on the other side of the road.

You can drop a top rope though, and the wall is unique and fun. Jun 20, 2016
Nick, just wondering if you had gone there and if the routes are good to go? May 25, 2016
Be down to this area in a few weeks, and I was just wondering... are the hangers back in place now?
Thanks to all of you taking care of areas like this! May 1, 2016
The Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance (PPCA) will donate the hangers for this route. I'll try to get out in the next few weeks to get 'er done. Thanks for bolting these, Ben! We need more routes of these grades in the Canyon. Nov 16, 2015
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
Word is these could get a repair before season's end, that the person doing said repair will be working in the canyon next year and is happy to replace the hangers as often as they are taken.

Word is that said person is also a mean shot with a paintball gun, if they get taken too often....

... just sayin'. Oct 2, 2015
I did these 2 climbs on 8/8/2015 and the hangers are still missing. Heavenly Scoops had 1 hanger and 1 rap ring at the anchors, I didn't see any hangers on Kalamis Aqua, but it did have anchors. So I climbed up Heavenly Scoops, clipping into the hanger and rap ring before going up to the anchors on Kalamis. Aug 9, 2015
I'm sorry to hear about the bolt hangers, guys, especially with all the positive feedback these routes have been getting.

I'm not sure if it was a pathetic cry out for some sort of ethical reasoning (which is a mute point because I soloed these too before I bolted them) or just someone who felt entitled to the hardware because it's "just too difficult" for them to get a job and contribute in any way to a sport they partake in.

Either way, I'll bring some more hangers back a reequip it, these routes are too good to leave like this! Jul 2, 2014
Blake Roberts
Denver, CO
Blake Roberts   Denver, CO
First time to Eleven Mile this weekend: beautiful area and great camping in the Pike NF. Unfortunately things did not go as planned.

Day 1) Got totally lost (100% my fault, the directions are spot on).

Day 2) Made it to the Water Sculpt Wall and...all of the hangers are missing. It's a damn shame too because the routes, as advertised, look like they would be fantastic beginner leads. Mega bummer. May 4, 2014
Stewart, maybe the photo is confusing, but what you are calling Tinaja Dome is actually further downriver. When you sent me the info for Wildflower Wall, the "Ribs" route was in there and I found that. It is across from my route that I bolted up the Nose feature opposite Tinaja, in a smaller side canyon downstream. I actually ran into Bob D. the day I bolted these, and he said he soloed them back in the '80s but thought it was great I was bolting them up as sport routes. This crag is directly across from Arch Rock, just to clarify. Jun 10, 2013
I climbed a half-dozen routes on this small cliff back in the late 1970s and 1980s with John Myers. We called it Tinaja Dome for all the natural water tanks on the cliff. All routes were trad. Brian Shelton and I did a 45-foot, 3-bolt 5.8 route on the left side up a rib to anchors in 2007. Jun 9, 2013

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