Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Arch Rock
|Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X|
|Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Kansas Honey T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pride of Sweden S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Brendan O'Donoghue and Ryan Dorsey? Harvey Carter & Larry Schubarth?|
|Page Views:||1,204 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Brendan O'Donoghue on Aug 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionP1: climb Captain's Fist. Use the excellent beta on that route's page.
P2: layback the pretty good corner to the top of tilted tower. For rope drag it's best to avoid placing gear, but it sports some excellent cams. Then from the top of the tower, clip the first of bolt of the 5.7 R that is part of a couple of different routes.
P3: from the bolted anchor atop the R runout, scramble up to the arch (a heart pounder if your limit is 5.4) There is a section with a sloper half way on the overhanging face of the arch. Stand right in front of the sloper to find two jugs and pull a bouldering style top-out move. If you must place a piece, extend it as much as possible, because the crux comes later.
This is where Dorsey-O'Donoghue begins.
Instead of scrambling off right. continue straight up where there are two adjacent slightly overhanging cracks. The left slightly right leaning, right almost horizontal. Take the right one. From the no hands rest beneath this short but taxing section, place several small cams and nuts at the base of the crack, and plug in one piece over your head (somewhere between #0.75 and #1 in depending on how far you can reach). Then proceed to crank out right through 5.10 moves. Pull around the corner and build your anchor from gear, as far back as possible (the gear is better and it's easier to belay from there).
LocationFrom hollow flake, walk 40 feet right to the left side side of tilted town and begin on Captain's Fist. (If you have non-climber friends, watching the last pitch from across the river is usually awe-inspiring.
ProtectionNormal rack. #4 Camalot is super helpful for the Captain's Fist pitch. Go light on nuts, they aren't super helpful. One really long sling is nice for the beginning of P3.
The first pitch belays at a piece of steel wire. Second pitch has two bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Gear for the final belay.
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