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Routes in Arch Rock

Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kansas Honey T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pride of Sweden S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,213 total, 17/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

These three bolted routes are started at the same location as Staicase and go up the face to the right of Staircase. None of my guidebooks have them listed, and they are to fun not to be on this website, so if anyone knows who put them up, please let me know so I can correct the names.

Follow any one of the three well bolted routes to a pair of anchors with quicklinks attached directly below the overhang (you can not see them until you are right on them). The routes are pretty consistent 5.8- but the top two bolts are pretty well spaced out and a 1.5 tricam fits perfectly into the rock on the right two routes.

The leftmost route, closest to Staircase, has a bit of distance up to the anchors from the last bolt without anywhere to put pro, but it is solid rock. The hardest moves on all three routes seemed to come within the first two bolts. There are only two anchors for the three lines and the routes themselves are a combination of face climbing and smearing.

It is important to note that these three climbs are all over 100 feet long, so two ropes are needed to rap off or if you want to set up a toprope.

Protection

Quickdraws and a 1.5 tricam for the right two routes.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.7+
Karl Kiser  
  5.7+
This is a nice pitch for the grade. One can place a #3 Camalot with a long sling on Hollow Flake prior to the first bolt. Aug 9, 2015
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Just in case people get the idea it is safe to use a 60m rope on the 2nd of these routes (Kansas Honey) - it has its own anchor now (maybe it shared an anchor with Waiting on the Staircase when this description was originally posted) which is quite a bit higher than the 5.6 anchor.

It definitely requires a 70m - we just made it on stretch with our 70m. The information posted under the Kansas Honey description on this page is correct. Aug 31, 2014
Rocky_Mtn_High
Arvada, CO
Rocky_Mtn_High   Arvada, CO
According to Ben Schmitt's guidebook, Eleven Miles to Freedom: The Rock Climber's Guide to Elevenmile Canyon, these three routes immediately adjacent to The Staircase (from right to left) are "Waiting on a Resolution", "Kansas Honey", and "Waiting on the Staircase".

The first bolt on "Waiting on a Resolution" may be the crux and is quite far off the deck (Ben recommends a stick clip to avoid a potential broken ankle; I clipped it from the left and then restarted).

I agree that reaching the anchor on Kansas Honey was a bit too runout for my comfort level, and I was glad to put a cam in under the flake below the anchor. I was also glad to have a 70m rope for lowering / rapping from these three routes. Aug 24, 2013
David Reuille
Denver, CO
David Reuille   Denver, CO
I just added these 3 routes as their own routes. From right to left: Unknown - 5.8R, Kansas Honey - 5.9, Unknown 2 - 5.6. Jul 11, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
These routes are listed in the new, updated version of Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Colorado, which just came out this summer. Unfortunately I do not have a copy, but hopefully someone who does will list the names/ratings. Aug 4, 2010
Jennifer Franklin
Durango, CO
 
Jennifer Franklin   Durango, CO
 
Julie and I led the third one to the right of the Staircase. The third to the right is a good beginner 8, but the 2nd to the right is a pretty sketchy start for a beginner, since the first two bolts are high up. We used a 60 meter rope for both, but with the 2nd route to the right, Julie traverse over to the chains meant for the 3rd route...just to be on the safe side. Both were lots of fun. May 31, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Climbed all three routes today with my wife. All of the bolts and all three anchors/chains look good. Appears to be a new set of anchors/chains at the top of Kansas Honey (1st pitch) -- thanks to whoever put them up! I thought the crux on all three routes was either getting to the 1st bolt, or the 2nd bolt. Once past those bolts, the rest of the climbing is pretty straightforward (5.7ish). A little run out at the very top of Kansas Honey and the middle route but the climbing is straightforward. Can place protection at the top of the middle route under a large overlap using a #2 or #3 Camalot before making the final move to the chains. Definitely need a 70m rope to toprope Kansas Honey and the middle route. Sep 7, 2009
Paul
  5.8-
Paul  
  5.8-
I really enjoyed this climb. It is certainly doable with a 60m rope. For a leader that is pushing the limits with this grade, getting to the second bolt could be a little bit scary (belayer beware). After the second bolt is clipped, you are pretty much home free as the climbing drops a grade and you have nice climbing up to the anchors. The top is very nice with great holds and easy climbing and just a tiny bit run out to keep things fun. Just a tiny bit runout, certainly not a lot. Have fun as this is a classic slab with dishes for holds. It's great. Oct 31, 2003
We had no problems doing this route with a 60m rope, for both lead and descent and top-roping. This is a great face climb with abundant little knobs and foot divots. I would give it a 3 star rating. Oct 30, 2003
With regard to Thompson's post:

Actually, the two rightmost routes (of the three bolted slab routes immediately right of Staircase and immediately left of Hollow Flake) can be done as "sport climbs" with a 60m rope. I've climbed them both several times this way. In fact, I just had an outing with a bunch of beginners and we set up a toprope on the two rightmost routes. They share the same set of anchors, whereas the leftmost bolted route (3-pitch 5.9), goes to a different set of anchors that is higher up. This 5.9 route needs two 60m ropes to reach the ground. Apr 28, 2003
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Having done these routes last weekend....you cannot do theses routes with a single 60m rope...believe me it was a pain. Apr 15, 2003
I just climbed the 2 rightmost of thes routes and found that they both go to an anchor below the lowest roof that is less than 100 ft off the deck, so you can use a single 60m rope. However, the leftmost route (immediately right of the Staircase) goes to a separate anchor below a higher roof...you will need 2 ropes to rap from there.

Also, the 2 routes on the right have 6 bolts each and are well-spaced and plenty safe. I didn't see any need for passive gear.

The leftmost route is listed in the Colorado book as a 3-pitch route. The CO book says it has 5 bolts, but it has more...not sure exactly how many. Oct 23, 2002