All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Arch Rock

Middle Meanie Crack

Name: Middle Meanie Crack
Rating: 2.1

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Arch Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blerg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
	Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Duck Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Frown-E Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fun-E Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Greetings from Butchers Hill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kansas Honey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Left Meanie Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Persistence S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pride of Sweden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Prow'd Monkey S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slab n' Grab S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Sticks and Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Zamboni Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 25 ft (8 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,750 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Sarah Meiser on Apr 30, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 Details

For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.

From Daniel H Bryant: the 2022 Elevenmile Canyon closures that were extended but do not include climbing areas.

Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.

Description

A somewhat awkward, high step gets you established in the steep crack. If you know how to jam and have relatively large hands, you will probably find this climb trivial. If you suck at crack climbing and/or have smaller hands, you will probably find it challenging. The crack was too wide for me to find many good hand jams and sometimes also too wide for my fist.

Location

The Meanie Cracks are a group of 3 obvious cracks at the base of the Tilted Tower. The Middle Meanie crack is obviously the one in the middle.

To descend, continue up Middle Dihedral (5.6) and rap from its top anchor on the Tilted Tower.