Avg: 1.9 from 8 votes
Routes in Arch Rock
|Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X|
|Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Kansas Honey T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Persistence S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pride of Sweden S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Zamboni Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||117 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||pete cogan on Jun 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a fun route as long as you don't fall well into the second pitch.
P1: Easily protected and easy crack. When it dies out, head R. You can protect this traverse with the smallest Alien. Then, set an anchor below the R-facing dihedral. About 80 feet.
P2: 40 feet of fun climbing in the dihedral, then about 70 feet of very easy climbing -- with absolutely NO PRO -- to the roof. You can put pro beneath the roof (cams #1 and up), but once you're over it you've got another 30 feet of no pro, with one 5.7 move above the roof.
Bottom line: a fun route with the potential of a 140' fall.
LocationFollow the crack that is between the 2 bolts of Zendance on your left and the R-slanting crack of Arch Rock Route on your right. The route goes up the crack, goes hard R for 20 feet, then up the R-facing dihedral. Then, it's about 70 feet of NO PRO to the roof.
Descend to R, following trail.
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