Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert, 2002
Page Views: 812 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of "Hurricane Hinzi". Climb up some short corners to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and begin a series of hard moves with some long reaches. The crux is getting past the fourth bolt and reaching the anchor. Excellent climbing on good stone. People under 5'6" might have a hard time with the reaches.

Protection

Five bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Having done this one a couple times, I think the best way to do it is to climb through the first 4 bolts (maybe clip 5th with long runner) on Hurricane Hinzi and move left into the upper section of Short Man's Burden. If I remember correctly, this is how it was first put up. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Doing it this way is 2 stars - you get the fun lower bulge of HH and the fun upper section of SB.

The direct start is kind of a chosstrocity, and the climbing above can't redeem the bomb that it earns. The climbing through the first 2 bolts makes you feel kind of dirty, because you end up kind of moving to the right, instead of going straight up at 5.harder-than-12a. Feb 22, 2013