Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson, 2000
Page Views: 1,291 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brad Short on Mar 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


61 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Yet another right-facing dihedral -- this one with a straight-in hand crack, bolts on the face to the right, and varying cracks to the left.

Start between Almost French and Almost Gothic. Fire straight up the dihedral, with enjoyable stemming and jamming. Practice the mantra "pull down, not out" on the loose blocks on the left wall. The last bolt is placed on the right face, beneath a flake. Two finish options exist -- straight up the dihedral (using the wide-ish fist crack) or undercling right at the flake and power upwards (good hands, not so good feet). The flake option is more difficult, but less thuggish.

The bolts are spaced fairly wide for a sport cliff, but the solid hand jams inspire confidence.

A 5.9 variation to the route breaks left into a crack around the fourth bolt, and finishes on separate anchors on the left wall of the dihedral.

Protection

6 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
  5.9+
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
  5.9+
The 5.9 Left Variation to Risky Business has only 5 bolts. After forking left into the crack the options include: clipping the 5th bolt of the direct line with a long sling (a fall would result in an interesting swing), plugging a finger-sized or so cam half way up the left crack (smarter), or just running it out to the high cold shut left of the crack (burly and not so smart). Apr 21, 2003
Not to to dis Brad, but I disagree. You can still make the last clip then go left... it might require a step out on the face, but I remember it being fairly secure for the clip... and I was out of shape and scared at the time. Disclaimer... I have long arms, my girlfriend often curses bolts that I feel are reasonably placed. Fun route for people who like crack... I mean cracks... you know, crack climbing... (pregnant pause) never mind... (sigh) Aug 21, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Better than it looks I think. Anyone else notice the fossil shell on the top of the flake left of the anchors? Pretty cool. First one I've seen at Shelf. Always wondered if there were any around. Nov 26, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Did this today and didn't find any loose blocks or choss. Still be cautious though! It's actually a really fun route. Nov 30, 2013
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
There are small loose blocks wedged in the cracks on the left face. Chalk on them, so people are using them. Jan 16, 2016
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
Decent climb with heady bolts. Wouldn't necessarily recommend this for a new 5.9 leader, especially if crack technique is weak. Well-protected at the crux, but after, you are looking at a significant runout. Loose blocks are present, but they seem pretty wedged. Dec 27, 2018