Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000
Page Views: 4,065 total · 20/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Just left of the striking arete of Funkdemental, find a wide crack with three bolts. At the third bolt, pull left into a lieback crack. Place a long sling on the third bolt, and after clipping the fifth bolt, reach down and unclip the fourth to reduce rope drag. Launch into a few lieback moves then step right across a slab and gain a short crack in a shallow corner. Follow your nose past a headwall, and arrive at the anchors in short order. A long draw on the last bolt reduces rope drag for lowering off.

This is an excellent outing at the grade with fantastic movement and many no-hands rests.


Eight bolts; bring two or three long draws.
Kreighton Bieger  
Does anyone know anything about the route that goes right from the third bolt of The Raven? It doesn't appear to be in the Cactus Cliff book. Apr 8, 2002
Darin Lang  
I agree with the three star rating above - an excellent climb with a wide variety of moves. More unrefined folks will find some nice hand and fist jams in the initial flare before the traverse - but then you apparently miss out on one of the no-hands rests mentioned above. More sustained, and more difficult overall, than other 5.9+ climbs in the area. The Acme Hair-Split-O-Matic (TM) on my desk just spit out 5.10a, so I'll have to go with that. Apr 8, 2002
The route that takes off right of Raven is called Total Recall 5.10c. The bolts may not be were you want them, but they are were the rock is best. Apr 9, 2002
Darin Lang  
Thanks for the info, Bob. Total Recall looks to have some fun arete climbing with great position. I'll have to give it a go the next time I'm down there. Apr 9, 2002
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
I must have missed the lower traverse left to the fourth bolt, as I went straight to the fifth bolt for my fourth clip. This probably made the route a little sporty, but it seemed to flow OK for me. I'll second Darin's Acme rating. Nov 14, 2002
The route between the Raven and Crimson Candy seems to be now getting traffic. It is a killer route which has anchors placed (oddly) high above the shelf and to the left of Raven's. It appears to be in the 5.8/5.9 ballpark.

Why is the Raven getting a 5.9+? It really is only a 5.7 that is strenuous for the grade. Either way, a super route that needs a long runner before heading left at the 2nd bolt. Jan 17, 2003
I bolted Raven solo. I rated Raven 5.9+ because: Many indoor climbers are addicted to this location, and climbers who have never climbed at location(s) like Turkey Rock could not likely flash a 5.8 trad route. Raven is RUN OUT in sections. If you place a few pieces of gear, Raven is easier than 5.9+. Nov 29, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Very fun route, worth doing. Jul 17, 2004
Jon Cannon  
I counted nine bolts up to the anchors. Is the 4th bolt (right at the traverse; skipping this bolt would certainly reduce the rope drag) on a different route, maybe? Sep 26, 2006
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Great route and a must do. There were some tricky moves at the start. The rock is solid and all the holds are there. Sep 2, 2007
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
No un-clipping silliness is required, as suggested in this description. Put a shoulder length runner on the 3rd and 4th bolts, and enjoy a rope drag free climb. Oct 16, 2007
Josh Nelson
Colorado Springs, CO
Josh Nelson   Colorado Springs, CO
Anyone know the woman who bolted this route? I met her out here today. Seemed like a pretty incredible woman with some great stories. Set 240 some routes at Shelf alone. Jan 30, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Hardware updated courtesy of Bob D'Antonio, Bruno Hache, and ASCA. Oct 14, 2013
Kyle Katsos
Colorado Springs, CO
Kyle Katsos   Colorado Springs, CO
Need two long runners (over 2") to get past the ledge at the top if you're looking to TR the route and want to avoid rope wear. Rappelling down took a bit of downclimbing the nose. Feb 22, 2015