Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green, Travis Nolan, 2000
Page Views: 2,016 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Mar 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


150 Opinions

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Description

Walking in to Cactus Cliff, after about five minutes, you will see Alexi's Climb, a short, bolted slab (five bolts) that looks very easy. This is a 5.5 that is the leftmost in a collection of moderate routes. Red Eclipse is the second route to the right of Alexi's Climb.

The route is a steep slab that starts on a small shelf and follows a line of bolts up a not-quite-vertical face, left of a crack. If you use the crack at the crux, I don't think it's 10c/d, more like 10b. Move between decent pockets on marginal feet and the crux is near the top.

Protection

4 bolts.

Photos

Of all the bolted boulder problems in this little alcove, this is the best. I found it quite enjoyable especially following the bolts absolutely straight up. Avoiding the crack definintly keeps the grade around 10d. Apr 12, 2002
First ascent by Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green and Travis Nolan in February, 2000 after a "red" lunar eclipse. I had a compound dislocation fracture of my ankle and tibia and fibula on this route in February 2002. My left foot skated off a small edge as I was getting ready to clip the anchors and I fell awkwardly sideways and my right heel smacked on a 3-inch-wide shelf as I fell past and that was it...ouch!!! Thanks to all the guys who carried me out and got me to the Canon City hospital. Dec 4, 2002
Wow! How far above the bolt were you? How far did you fall? Dec 4, 2002
Larry Shaw
  5.10c
Larry Shaw  
  5.10c
Cool moves, went in the crack to the right at the top, not sure if that's on route. Jul 17, 2004
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
Fun climb, 5.10c! All the holds are there, but most of them happen to be two fingers or so. There is a good rest area in the middle of the climb that allows you to rest those fingers and grab more chalk for those hot and slippery days. Aug 14, 2006
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
 
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
 
WATCH OUT!!!!! The last time I was on this route the chains at the top were wearing out due to contacting the bolt. Sep 21, 2007
Camille Kimball
Manitou Springs, CO
 
Camille Kimball   Manitou Springs, CO
 
Short and tough face! Crux after the 3rd bolt. Feb 2, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Really fun, crimpy route, but that last bolt is hard to clip. Make sure you're solid on the thin holds. Nov 10, 2010
Note that in the Bob D'Antonio guidebook, this climb is listed as 5.9, and having just done it, it does seem to be a solid 5.10. Oct 31, 2011
jamesm
Canon City, Co
  5.10+
jamesm   Canon City, Co
  5.10+
The book says it's a 5.9, but yeah it feels more like a solid 10 face climb. It's rough, but the key holds are there. Apr 21, 2014
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.10c
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.10c
Really cool climb, makes you work on face climbing skills! Jan 30, 2017