Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2001
Page Views: 1,004 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brad Short on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

Midway between Black Slabbeth and Oscar de la Cholla is a light-colored buttress with a shallow, left-facing corner that slants to the right. Follow this corner, then move left on a left-facing flake. After a few moves above the flake, cruise right and head for the small roof. Pull the roof on the left (easier than it seems from below), heading straight up a couple of short faces to the anchors.

The roof also goes on the right, which is probably a little easier. If the move at the roof looks a little spooky, a variety of finger-sized cams can be placed just below the roof in a horizontal crack.

Overall, a fun route with a good variety of moves.

Protection

8 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

The roof (although not the crux) might be a bit scary for the budding .10 leader without an extra piece of gear. The bolt above the roof is quite a ways up there and the first clipping opportunity is from an overhanging stance with reasonably large handholds. I wouldn't want to fall trying to make that clip. Sep 8, 2003
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
 
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
 
If you can't say something nice....

[Internet crickets chriping] Mar 15, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I thought this one was fun all the way up! A bit pumpy but not as bad as it looks. Not very technical. Oct 5, 2010
The bolting could be modified just a bit to make this a better route for the 5.10 climber. Overall, the climbing was fun and the rock good too. Dec 5, 2015
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Disagree that the rock is good on this one....

Near the top is a large block (4' x 3'x 2') that you have to climb over. It has cracks on all sides and forms a small roof, so it is not well supported. The left end sounds hollow. I would tread lightly on this one. Dec 3, 2016